Amongst photographs recently found in part of the collections of the late Shoreham historian, Michael Norman, is one noted by him on the reverse ‘First bungalow on Shoreham beach c.1890.’ There are no other notes at all concerning it and curiosity prompted an attempt to find out more.
Before the bungalows arrived the chemical works, cholera hospital, coastguard station, and a few boat and fishermen’s huts were about the only buildings on the beach. The location of the earliest bungalows can be seen on the 1898 Ordnance Survey map. Matching this to the 1930’s Bungalow Town map and lists shows that these first bungalows were named, from west to east, Kittiwake, Arcadia, Struan Lee, Rhodesia, Lazyland, Sea View, Sea Spray, Coronation, Shoreham Dene, Waterville and Canaan (the empty rectangles were plots for later bungalow to be built on them but some don’t seem to have materialised.
Photographs and postcards of these first bungalows in their early years are scarce but there are a few.
The most westerly of these bungalows named Kittiwake was sited on the beach just below the eastern tip of Widewater. It only survived until 1911 when it burned down and was rebuilt. Beyond it in the distance is the dark roof of Straun Lee and the castle-like Rhodesia.
The next photo takes us a little further eastwards. It is an older image than the previous photo, somewhat over exposed, shows Struan Lee in its earlier, smaller form and beyond it the plain bungalow that preceded the Rhodesia rebuilding. The later photo alongside it is from a hand coloured postcard showing Struan Lee with a taller roof and extension of the decorative porch supports to the right hand side. Behind stands the impressive Rhodesia but only a few years later it became yet another Bungalow Town building to be destroyed by fire. The lower photo shows how the original bungalow was incorporated into the new building.
Landmarks, background scenery, other nearby buildings, flag poles etc., can be useful in identifying individual bungalows and for this exercise beach capstans used by the local fishermen also helped. There were two capstan positions on the beach that we know of and these are shown on the 1912 Ordnance Survey map. One was near Sea Spray bungalow that had been built in 1893 by owner Tom Lee, one of the first permanent residents of Bungalow Town – he most likely built Coronation next to it as well as he is recorded as living there by 1911.
The photo top left (again somewhat over exposed) shows in the background the unmistakeable dormer and conservatory window of Sea Spray bungalow alongside a much later photo of the same building. The dormer in the older photo looks to be in the process of being added with timbers on the ground below it ready for use and next to the walker striding towards the camera is the capstan. A later photo (below) show this capstan (or a replacement) repositioned at the west side of Sea Spray but fitted with wheel-handles that indicate an horizontal drum winch generally known as a ‘crab’ capstan.
This photo (1) must be one of the oldest beach photos and shows one basic bungalow with, in the distance, two railway carriages surrounded by picket fences. In the far right of the photo another capstan can just be made out. The 1912 map confirms the second capstan as being close to Shoreham Dene bungalow so could this be that bungalow in its original form?
A study of the photos taken in subsequent years suggests that the closest match to the configuration and spacing of those three is photo (2) showing detail from a larger image of the bungalows near Shoreham Dene but taken from the opposite, western, side. Shoreham Dene is the one behind the two bathing huts and like the bungalow in the older photo is also side-on to the beach. The simple bungalow in the centre is Salopia and the other to the left of it is Hirondelle, both in the same postions as the carriages in the earlier photo but now without their picket fences. Each of them contains one of the railway carriages and one can just be made out in the latter. Photo (3) is a head-on view of Hirondelle showing the carriage more clearly and next to it (4) a hand coloured post card providing an unobstructed view of Shoreham Dene after the roof had been extended to include a porch.
Famous music hall artists and other entertainers provided the most influence in popularising the attractions of life in Bungalow Town but 1930’s local historian Arthur Wilde reckoned Shoreham’s oyster merchant and fisherman Sam Maple was the true pioneer.
Each fishing family had their own stretches of beach where they kept their boats and fished from. Wilde tells us that in 1879 Sam had a railway carriage towed over the river and sited on the Beach for use as storage for his fishing equipment but also as a bathing hut. This carriage was later included as part of the bungalow Sea View that we know, from old directories and maps of named bungalows was located on the beach at the spot just below where the Church of the Good Shepherd was subsequently built.
Sea View was later split into two properties. The western half of which was built up to two storeys retaining the same name and the eastern, single storey half renamed Beach Court.
Returning now to the question of Michael Norman’s photo. This shows (below) a Victorian railway carriage on a shingle beach with the sea behind. A good quality hipped roof has been added with a small decorative dormer and gable ends. A moustached man holds open one of the doors and, with typical Victorian attitudes, three others (and a bird in a cage) shelter in the shade from the sun. The photo provides no other clues as to the location. The carriage is of a type seen in many Bungalow Town photos. The individuals have so far not been identified – were they the Maple family or the next known occupants the Havindens who were there in 1914 and may have been responsible for developing it?
Could this really be the original Sea View, the first bungalow in Bungalow Town? If it is, its appearance as shown here didn’t last very long before it was completely covered by the enlargement work that was to eventually evolve into the two, semi-detached properties.
Michael Norman was known to be a stickler for historical accuracy so it is most unlikely he would have made the notation on the photo’s reverse without good reason. However, there are no other records in this part of the collection to confirm that. The original collection was considerable, a priceless record of Shoreham’s past but was broken up and sold off after his death. Perhaps the answer still lies somewhere amongst the other surviving parts of the collection?
Shoreham September 2017
One final aside concerns the Maple family who were to be further involved in Bungalow Town’s history when Sam Maple’s son, Arthur, became romantically involved with near neighbour Agnes Rhodes, a widow who owned and lived at ‘Rhodesia’ – their story and that of the impressive castle-like ‘bungalow’ is covered in the separate article Rhodesia – a special ‘bungalow’ http://www.shorehambysea.com/rhodesia-special-bungalow/ Arthur was later to become the Superintendant of Works for the Shoreham Sea Defence Commisioners.
1917 Bungalow Town property map and listings – see http://www.shorehambysea.com/bungalow-town-property-map-index/
1935 Bungalow Town property map and listings – see http://www.shorehambysea.com/bungalow-town-property-map-1935/
1938/9 Town Guide
Winton Family Album *
ShorehambySea.com photo collections *
Sussex Archaeological Society Marlipins Collection *
Rhodesia – a ‘special’ bungalow – Roger Bateman – see http://www.shorehambysea.com/rhodesia-special-bungalow/
* Shortly due for inclusion on the website
A very rare map of bungalows and their names as they were in 1917 when the growth of Bungalow Town was really getting under way. There are (as to be expected) lots of familiar and new names on this, some for new bungalows and others that were obviously changed. The footprints for each bungalow are not accurate, though, with no real indication of their shape (as with the 1930’s map) only identical hand drawn rectangles for each showing their location. The map year fortuitously coincides with the 1917 street directory (also on shorehambysea.com website) but already that comes up with a few anomalies (different names for some properties on the same spot, probably in part due to frequent name-changes and different time of the year between the two publications – there are even different names for some of the roads!).
These wooden bungalows were often altered, replaced and renamed so that for Bungalow Town enthusiasts this document is a valuable reference that will fill a gap in our knowledge of the area and help resolve hitherto confusing discrepancies.
(Original document donated by Jean Tyler and will be gifted by ShorehambySea.com to West Sussex Records Office.
RB September 2017)
1901 and 1912 to 1914 Properties on the Beach (from Census Returns)
Bungalow Town was then under the control of Lancing Council – no road names are mentioned. The bungalow details are listed in the same order as shown in the census and from the names of some of the properties that survived to the 1930’s it would appear that the list works generally (with some exceptions) from the east to the west. Where the names did survive or locations are known through other research (e.g., ‘Along the Beach at Bungalow Town ‘article) these have been included using the 1935 street names – if they appear on the 1935 property list the numbers are also included. Un-named bungalows appear as ‘bungalow’ and ‘bungalow buildings’ may perhaps be brick built as opposed to all wood construction. The census was carried out in March of 1901 out of the holiday season which is why very few residents are shown. The few residents’ names that are mentioned have been included:-
Redout (probably the Redoubt or fort),
Coast Guard Station,
Eastville (1935 property numbers 313/314 – beach side of Old Fort Road twelve properties to the east of the junction with Shingle Road),
Breakers (was this a bungalow with that name or actual breakers?),
The Anchorage, (1935 property number 49 – south side of Beach Road, approx. Four properties east of the junction with Weald Dyke)
Tit Willow (south side of Beach Road, three properties west of The Anchorage)
St. Vincent (1935 property number 43 – south side of Beach Road next or close to Tit Willow)
Regina (1935 property number 190 – Lower Beach Road four properties west of Beach Green. Here lived George Waters, a rate collector and his family)
Canacao (south side of Beach Road west of St. Vincent)
Three Gables (south side of Beach Road just east of Beach Green).
Dorothy (north side of Beach Road, one property to the east of Beach Green)
Pebble Ridge (1935 property number 105 – north of Beach Road immediately west of and adjacent to Beach Green)
Wavelet (1935 property number 196 – Lower Beach Road, two properties west of Pebble Ridge)
Beach Lodge (1935 property number 106 – north of Beach Road on the west side of Pebble Ridge)
St. Hilda (1935 property number 107 – north of Beach Road on the west side of Beach Lodge)
Villa Lido (1935 property number 23 – south side of Beach Road, four properties west of Beach Green)
Shoreham Dene (1935 property number 17 – south side of Beach Road)
Etheldene (1935 property number 16 – south side of Beach Road)
Oceana (1935 property number 15 – south side of Beach Road)
The Era (here lived Samuel Gray ‘living on own means’ and his wife Emily)
The Retreat (1935 property number 121 – north side of Beach Road mid-way between Beach Green and the Church of the Good Shepherd)
Shingle Lodge (1935 property number 9 – south side of Beach Road)
Allendale (1935 property number 7 – south side of Beach Road)
Belle Vue (or Belle View) (1935 property number 124 – north side of Beach Road)
The View (1935 property number 150 – near the west end of Lower Beach Road)
Sunnydene ( 1935 property number 149 – as above)
Montrose (entered out of order – in the 1910/20’s a bungalow of this name stood east of Ferry Road)
Sea View (1935 property number 1 – south side of Beach Road adjacent to the church)
Beach Ville (1935 property number 551 – south side of Beach Road, two properties west of Sea View)
Lazyland (1935 property number 553 – south side of Beach Road)
Rhodesia (here lived Agnes E. Rhodes – this castle-like ‘bungalow’ burnt down in 1923 and was replaced with ‘Castledene’)
Arcadia (1935 property number 558 – south side of Beach Road)
Woodcot (entered out of order, this was 1935 property number 42 next door to St. Vincent previously mentioned)
Beachcroft (1935 property number 565 – south side of Beach Road)
Kingscote (1935 property number 584 – south side of Beach Road opposite Widewater)
Sano (1935 property number 585 – as above)
Moorings (1935 property number 588 – as above)
Day Dream (1935 property number 590 – as above)
San Reno (1935 property number 592 – as above)
Bungalow Bungalow Building
Bungalows on Lancing Beach 1912/1914.
For a brief period when part of the western end of Bungalow Town came under Lancing the street directory for that town included the bungalow names concerned. This was only carried out for the years 1912 to 1914 and these are listed below. There are many more bungalows listed in the 1912/13 period than in 1914 which is thought to reflect the considerable destruction of property caused by storms at the time that particularly affected that part of the beach.
From Lancing to Shoreham:-
Dar Es Salaam
Will o’ the Wisp
From Lancing to Shoreham:- Vigo
Roger Bateman Shoreham Original Research May 2003 – updated to include 1901 Census. February 2011
Extract from The Worthing and District Local Directory 1914-15
Shopsdam, ·West End of Widewater
Postal District, Lancing; nearest Post &. Telegraph Office is Lancing
From Lancing to Shoreham
(Vigo) Chandler, Wm. bungalow agent
(Lancing Point) Croshaw, G. S.
(Valhalla) Woolsey, G. E.
(Bella Vista) Briggs, William
(Hearts Delight) Mayne, Mrs.
(Sanducha) Heathcote, A. E.
(Andover) Haines, Miss
Shoreham Postal District.
From Lancing Beach to Beach road and Kings drive
(Happy Land) Phillips, Mrs.
(Beach Bank) Solly, .J. R.
(Happy Thought) Bridson, Rev. P.
(Silver Strand) Davis, Mrs. E.
(Gipsyland) West, Mrs. T.
(Tokio) Pamment, G. W.
(Kioto) Elms, Mrs. M.
(Ocean Wave) Verrinder, S. H.
(Belvedere) Enever, Mrs.
(San Remo) Batley, Mrs. E. M.
(Waiwera) Bate, A.
(Day Dream) Lawrance, D. W.
(The Haven) Randolph, Col.
(The Moorings) Jenkins, Mrs. H.
(The Shanty) Neville, MrsM. E.
(Gelasma) Howard, Mrs.
(Sano) Raynham, Mrs.
(Kingscote) Bourdin, H.
(Bohemia) Reed, C. T.
(Sur-La-Mer) Modin, Mrs. G.
(Inglenook) White, Mrs. M.
(Brynhir) Harrison, Mrs.
(Silver Spray) Davis, Mrs. E.
(Shamrock) Hill,,V. G.
(The Nuggett) Gold, Miss
(Fassifern) West, Mrs. T.
(Sea Haven) Myers, S.
(Isora) Harrison, Brook
(Sea Shell) Woolf, D.
(La Morna) Bright, H. W.
(Beach Croft) Havenden, A.
(The Folly) Heslop, Miss S. H.
(Tean) Godfrey, B. W.
(Kittiwake) Godfrey, B. W.
EAST END OF WIDEWATER
(Beach Haven) King, Mrs.
(Arcadia) Rigby, John
(Struanlea) Robertson, Miss
(Rhodesia) Gillett, Rev. C. T.
(Gull’s Nest) Pointer, Mrs.
(Lazyland) Cleaver, H. C.
(Rock Point) Pyne, A. R.
(Beach ville) Cox, Mrs.
(Lockerbie) Trife, :Miss
From Beach road to Brighton road and Bungalow Town Halt
(St. Clair) Peckover, G.
Kings Drive to Ferry road and Old Fort road
(Sea View) Havinden, A.
(La Maisonette) Edmonds, Miss A.
(Ivydene) Burstow, Mrs. E. J.
(Allandale) Locock, Mrs.
(Shingle Lodge) Berry, J. M.
(Sea Spray) Ashton; Mrs.
(Coronation) Lee, T.
(Hirondelle) Cheesman, Miss
(Oceana) Gardner, Mrs. F.
(Etheldene) Sendall, F. E.
(Shoreham Dene) Marshall, C. D.
(Chandos) Marshall, T. A.
(Salud) Jeffreys, Mrs.
(La Vague) Hardwick, A. A. H.
(Mona) Leggatt, A. S.
(Villa Lido) Belfield, W.
(Seacot) Goring, H. 0.
(Favonta) Linton, Mrs.
(Waterville) Paine, Mrs.
(Harbour St. Mary) Nunn, Mrs. H.
(Sans Souci) Fogarty, W.
(Dorothy) Bennett, Mrs.
(Pebbleridge) Turquand, Miss S. E.
(Beach Lodge) Pitts, Miss L. C.
(St. Hilda) Lundi, Mrs.
(Minnehaha) Leggett, A. S.
(Seacroft) Foley, H. J.
(The Era) Budd, J. H.
(Sea Gull) Mellett, Miss
(Bury Lodge) Standen, F.
(Retreat) Moresby, Miss E. G.
(Athelney) Blackford, J. B.
(Belle View) Dupre-Clough, A.
(Seamount) Salmon, Mrs. J. E.
(Downsview) Ashton, –
(Buenos Ayres) Tindall, Mrs.
(Stonehaven} Pitts, Miss L. C.
(Triton Lodge} Gardner, J.
(Sunshine) Hardwick, A. A. H.
(Porth Genua) Davies, Miss
(Three Gables) Smith, Miss Loy
(Mimosa) Smith, Miss Loy
(Canacoa) Eliot, Miss M. T. E.
(The Cabin) Whitby, Miss
(Woodcot) Smith, Miss Loy
(St. Vincent) Smith, Miss Loy
(Tit Willow) Vidal, E.
(Niobe) Austen, F.
(Maelvy) Monk, Mrs. J. S.
(The Anchorage) Grundy, Mrs. S. A.
(Seaholme} Dupont, Mrs. W. H.
(Anonyma) Molyneaux, Mrs.
(Montpelier) Bellamy, H. A.
(San Toy} Porter, R.
(The Breakers) Williams, Dr. G. C.
(Restona) Marsten, Miss
(St. Brelades) Chaplin, C. A.
(Greenways) Hayter, C.
(Sussex Lodge) Landen Mrs.
(The Pagoda) Kingston, Capt. L. A.
The Ferry to Beach road RIGHT SIDE
(Ferry House) Shoreham Beach and District Development Co. Ltd.
Iversons Limited Seaside Land Co. (Ltd.)
Bungalow Stores (Ltd.)
(Wallaby) Williams, W.
(Thorrington) Beddoe, Mrs.
(Sorrento) Hyams, Mr’l.
Pillar Letter Box LEFT SIDE
Board of Trade Rocket and Life Saving Apparatus
(Framnaes) Easter, Stephen
(The New Era) Neill, A
OLD FORT ROAD.
From Ferry road to Old Fort
(Palova) Loftus, Miss
(Nellstan) Burdwood, S. H.
(Rosemary) Rice, Rev. T.
(Blink Bonny) Gates, G. H.
(Montrose) Raynes, Rev. H. A.
(Samphire) Stammwitz, S. A.
(Iona) Marshall, Major H ..
(Cecil Lodge) Ledger, S.
(Barrymore) Marshall, Major H.
(Hop o’ Thumb) Evans, W. E.
(Arnside) Inskip, Mrs.
(Silverdale) Inskip, Mrs.
(Lyndory) Schmidt, Mrs.
(Fides) Olby, Mrs.
(Maryland) Townsend, Mrs.
(Telby-Four) Lang, L.
(Wendy) Inskip, Mrs.
(Surf House) Trengrouse, H.
(The Keep) Easter, Stephen
(Dars-es-Salaam) Easter, Stephen
(The Bungalow) Borton, Mrs.
(Eastville) Henwood. Mrs.
(Victoria) Denny, B. S. L.
(Corona) Price, Mrs. C. A. J.
(Moringside) Henley, Mrs.
(Ontario} Bennett, C.
(Boy Blue) Scotcher, W.
(Larkstone) Havers, Miss
(Seaweed) Tabrar, A.
(Maydew) Faulkner, Miss M. R.
(Eyrie) Grant, Miss
Pillar Letter Box
(Holmcote) .Mills, Watkin
(The Kraal) Francis, H. A.
(The Admiral) Fisher, E. E. Esq.
(The Wigwam) Ernst, Dr. L. E.
(Mersholme) Reeks, Mrs. M. E.
(Gratus) Anderton, Miss K.
(Vivian) Humrhrey, L.
(Pebblecote) Spaul, 0. S. A.
(The Warren) Lansdell, W. H.
(Kingsville) Steddy, H. C.
(Queens.ville) Morgan, Col. F. C.
(Cecilia) Loftus, Miss Cissie
(Picciola) Klimanek, M. L.
(Lullaby) Knight, :Miss
(Cranbourne Lodge) Ryley, Dr. J. B
(The Hut) Ruttering, Miss
(Pax) .Monro, W. E.
(Massater) Reid, Dr.
(Cornubia) Snell, Miss
(The Nest) Dempster, Dr.
(Sunnyland) Bullen, W. H. C.
(Rivermouth) Hollins, Rev. H. C.
(The Shelter) Courtney, G. F.
(Desiree) Heale, Miss
(Hygieia) Jopling-Rowe, :Mrs.
(La Boheme) Miers, Mr.s.
(Roxburgh) Kerr, Mrs. S. E.
(Fort House) Tracey, C. D.
(Wray) Hall, Mrs. J. E.
(Fort Haven) Monro, W. E.
(Sandy Hook) Fisher-White, J.
(La Tosca) Willatts, J.
(Aurora) Steddy, H. C.
(Beach House) Easter, Stephen
Kings Drive to Ferry Road
(Sunnydene) Burstow, Mrs. F.
(The View) Burstow, Mrs. E. J.
(Claremont) Neville, Mrs. A. M.
(College View) Brewster, Mrs.
(Mignon) Elphick, Mrs.
(The Chalet) Derriman, Mrs.
(Sunny Mount) Brewster, Mrs.
(Wavelet) Hardwick, A. A. R.
(Umtata) Sayers, H.
(Sunbeam) Hardwick, A. A. H.
(Northbrooks) Reeves, Miss
(Le Gnome) Carpentier, Mdlle.
(Riverside) Wilkins, Mrs. M. M.
(Riverbank) Monier-Williams, H.
(Norfolk Lodge) Yates, Miss
(Skylark) Baguley, C.
During the early 1900’s redundant carriages were purchased from the London Brighton and South Coast Railway Company for £10 each and carted across the Adur to Shoreham Beach. Continue reading “Last of the Bungalow Town Railway Carriages”
The 1901 census shows Agnes E. Rhodes at ‘Rhodesia’ in Bungalow Town with her three children, Ellen (stepdaughter), Eva and Winifred. Agnes was the daughter of William Sherman a Stepney, London, mariner. At the age of 18 she married widower John Richard Rhodes in 1889. Continue reading “Rhodesia – a special ‘bungalow’”
The reminiscences of Bessie Bailey and her daughter Peggy
Foreword: – In the early 1920’s much of the Beach was still undeveloped and the bungalows and houses that were there were spread along the seafront with little or nothing behind except in Ferry Road. There was no electricity, gas, or mains drainage; water was brought from the mainland in a large zinc cistern and sold at 2p a bucket to supplement the rainwater collected in storage tanks. The houses were given bizarre names rather than numbers. Continue reading “Bungalow Town and the Beach at Shoreham between the Wars”
Along the Beach at Bungalow Town.
Ever wondered where those bungalows pictured in Shoreham’s old postcards were? Relive the view our predecessors saw and even meet them by joining our celebrated Shoreham Time Walks. See those wooden structures as they once were, some little more than simple wood and corrugated iron shacks, others extravagant and imaginative in design. Those wishing to participate should present themselves promptly at 1pm at the east end of Widewater on Saturday 10th August in any year between 1900 and 1920………………………. Continue reading “Along the Beach at Bungalow Town”