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History

History (52)

Sunday, 09 July 2006 08:27

The Story of Shoreham by Sea

Written by

Extracts from "The Story of Shoreham" by Henry Cheal - first published in 1921

"To all those my Fellow-townsmen who fared forth to the
Greatest War known to History.
And to the memory of those Gallant Heroes who fell,
nobly fighting in the Cause of Freedom and Justice,
this story of Shoreham is dedicated"


The Adur Valley and its Ancient People

The Neolithic (later stone age) population of Britain-a darkwhite race-are said to have come from the deserts of the east, from Arabia and Egypt, and to have followed the shores of the Mediterranean in journeying hitherward. Any attempt to fix a date for this immigration is quite hopeless. It was far back in the distant ages, but this ancient people had settlements in thus part of the country which we now call Sussex, in the coast district between the Downs and the sea and in the river valleys.

On the alluvial lowlands of the Adur estuary they grew in abundance those cereals upon which they largely depended for their daily bread. At Cissbury Hill they obtained in abundance the flints for the manufacture of their stone hatchets and other implements. With these tools shafts were sunk and the whole hillside honeycombed with tunnels in the work of excavating the copious material found in the chalk. Some of the actual tools used in these mining operations are now in the British Museum, while flint implements from Cissbury are to be seen in the Museums of Brighton and Lewes. No one can tell us the duration of this industry at Cissbury, but the large number of implements found point to long and continued operations and its occupation as a factory.Some say that it must have lasted several thousand years. It was the Sheffield of the flint industry in Neolithic times.

Another race threw up the great hill-fort and in so doing cut the imposing ditch of their citadel through the filled-in shafts of the older mines.

If you have not already visited Cissbury, do so. You may follow the track over Lancing Downs and beyond, and will tread much the same path by which the primitive yet cunning artizan made his way up from the river of " running waters " to the flint factory on the hill-top. The place cannot fail to impress you. It was once teeming with a busy industry, the evidence of which is to be found in the countless flint chips and flakes scattered broadcast over the whole hill-side. When the Romans came stone weapons had long been superseded by bronze and iron, and still to-day this monument, sublime in its solitary grandeur, remains to speak to us of a people and a period so remote from our own time, as to make the Roman invasion of Britain appear in comparison as an event of yesterday.

At the time that this flint factory was in full swing we may reasonably conclude that the coast district from the Chichester marshland to Pevensey was not consolidated under a single rule, but that there existed chieftainships over several villages, confined for the most part to single river valleys. Such a principality in the fertile valley of the Adur and the coast strip from Worthing to Brighton would roughly correspond to the modern Rape of Bramber, possessing its own boundary of forest and its own camp of refuge on the hill-top. Now the flint-workers of Cissbury knew nothing of metals ; the iron ore in the almost inaccessible Weald was of no use to them. If aware of its existence they were totally ignorant of its possibilities. Copper and tin were alike unknown to them and therefore they could not manufacture bronze.

A Stone-Age" Sheffield "

The secret of the manufacture of bronze was probably first discovered in Asia, where tin and copper were most workable, and thence spread to Europe, where it was quickly adopted by the Aryan Celts. Having learnt the use of bronze certain great improvements followed, notably amongst others an immense advance in the art of boat-building. The men of the Bronze Age soon constructed vessels which enabled them to cross the narrow seas and invade Britain. Their superior weapons gave them an enormous advantage over the natives, armed only with their polished flint hatchets, and in a very short time they over ran nearly the whole island. This great invasion is said to have taken place some 1,000 or 1,500 years before the Christian era.

Thus the people of Britain came in two great waves. First the short dark Iberian (who mined for flints at Cissbury) and then the mighty Celt who conquered him. Thence forward the two peoples existed side by side, for the Celts did not exterminate those whom they had conquered, but made slaves of them, and these slaves learned the tongue of their masters.
At the date of the first Roman invasion these two distinct types of people were to be found in Sussex-a Celtic aristocracy of Aryan type, round-headed, fair-haired and blue-eyed, together with Celticised Euskarian or half-cast serfs, the latter retaining the long skulls and dark complexion of their aboriginal ancestors.

Under the bronze-weaponed Celts a more advanced type of civilization became possible, and a more extended chieftainship resulted from the improved weapons and consequent military power, and much of Britain became amalgamated into considerable kingdoms, some of which seem to have spread over several modern shires. But while this was generally so, Sussex, enclosed by its barrier of forest, seems to have remained a single little principality of itself, held at least in later times by a tribe known to the Romans as the Regni, whose prince or king had his seat of government at Regnum (Chichester).

The Celts occupied the fertile valleys and alluvial slopes, cut down the woods by the river-sides and built their more regular camps of refuge upon the Downs for protection from the neighbouring tribes, so that we find the traces of their occupation mainly confined to the Downs and the seaward slopes.
In the polished Stone Age the district had been self-supporting because of its possession of flint. In the Bronze Age it was dependent on other places through its non-possession of copper and tin. During the former period it may have exported weapons from Cissbury ; during the latter it must certainly have imported the material of weapons from Cornwall and Gaul.

Before the Romans came iron as well as tin was found and manufactured in Britain and bronze axes had been discarded in favour of iron swords and spears. There seems to have been a considerable intercourse with the continent and among the agricultural exports were cattle and hides, wheat and barley.

A British Prince

An important personage at the period of Julius Caesar's invasion, reigning over part of Britain, was Commius. This prince appears to have had three sons: Tincommius, who was king of the Regni (practically answering to the present county of Sussex) ; Verica, whose sway was over the eastern part of the Atrebates (Berkshire and the north part of Wilts), and Eppilos, who ruled over Kent.
Tincommius was king of the Regni when Caesar came and his coins have been found at various places, both in East and West Sussex, in our own immediate neighbourhood, at Bramber and Steyning, and on Lancing Downs. Coins of Verica have been found at several places in Sussex, including Shoreham and Steyning and on Lancing Downs. By this we may infer that the Regni and the Atrebates traded one with the other and that by the time the two brothers, Tincommius and Verica, ruled over their respective principalities some sort of overland communication-probably by track-ways through the dense forests existed.

Traces of the Roman Occupation

It is only reasonable to suppose that when the Romans came they found considerable village settlements on the shores of the Adur-at Shoreham, Botolphs, Bramber, and Steyningalthough these names were then unknown. It was then less a river and more an arm of the sea, which ran inland as far as Steyning, and its great importance must very early have been appreciated by them.If the site of the Roman Portus Adurni is to be found in these waters it may have embraced the whole of this estuary. Some place the actual Roman station in the neighbourhood of Aldrington and tell us that, like the lost " Atlantis," it long since sank beneath the waves. Others favour Bramber, and some say that its site was at Shoreham-Old Shoreham. On the analogy of other Roman ports in Britain the latter would seem to be the most likely place. It was but a short distance up the fair-way, but so far from the open sea as to give complete security to the vessels of the period. The name New Shoreham sufficiently proves that the first wharfing must have been higher up the river, and although the first opportunity for fortification was at Bramber, where it is quite likely that the Roman military governor of the district had his seat, we have the analogy of every port upon the Sussex rivers of a harbour forward of the first fortification.

But there are some who tell us that we must seek elsewhere than in this neighbourhood for Portus Adurni and that the river name " Adur " was first applied to these waters by Drayton in his poem " Polyolbion " (A.D. 1612). Up to that time, they say, it was usually known as the " Sore " (as in Holinshed's Chronicle, A.D. 1577). It is referred to in documents of the reign of Henry VIII. merely as " a certain river " and has been named at various times Bramber Water, Beeding River, Alder and Shoreham River. From this evidence it is argued that no Roman soldier ever set foot within miles of the Adur Valley and no Roman galley was ever seen upon its restless waves.

Alternative names for rivers, and especially for particular reaches of rivers, are of course quite common but they do not exclude one general name. The word Adur is of Celtic origin, " Dwyr " = running or flowing waters, and sufficiently describes the river as a whole, for it is seldom at rest. We may reasonably conclude that even before the Romans came and made it their Portus Adurni it was known as the Dwyr, the running waters, " hurrying down to the live sea " as one has so aptly written of it.

We know that the Roman engineers, nearly two thousand years ago, made that great military highway from the east gate of Regnum (Chichester) to London Bridge. We call it the " Stane Street " and much of it is still in use. From this road, in the neighbourhood of Croydon, there was apparently a junction which led directly to the Adur mouth. Of this highway two short sections have been discovered and they are in direct alignment towards Shoreham. Apparently the way was across St. John's Common (Burgess Hill) to the Hassocks sand pits, where many fine specimens of Romano-British pottery and Samian ware have recently been found. These are now exhibited in the Sussex Archaeological Museum at Lewes. The road ascended the South Downs by way of the old track up the Saddlescombe side of the Devil's Dyke and made for Portslade (Portus ladus = the way to the port) and so to the Adur mouth, joining or crossing a highway which ran from east to west through the county-from Anderida (Pevensey) to Regnum (Chichester). The latter highway probably crossed the Ouse at Lewes, which has been claimed as the site of the small Roman town of Mutuantonis.

Several specimens of Romano-British Pottery now in the Brighton Museum were found during the erection of the soldiers' huts north-east of Buckingham Park.
Mention may be made of several important Roman finds in the neighbourhood. Just across the river where the Downs rise towards Lancing Clump the foundations of a Roman villa, a bath and interments, were discovered in the year 1828. Numerous coins were also turned up at the same time, and these, ranging from the date of the Emperor Claudius (A.D. 41-54) to Gallienus (A.D. 260), seem to indicate a long possession of the spot by the Romans. Only a few years ago the foundations of a Roman temple were discovered amidst the trees at Chanctonbury Ring. In the course of the excavation of these remains coins were again found and these cover a period from the reign of Nero (A.D. 54-68) to Gratian (A.D. 375-383). Roman remains have also been discovered at Botolphs. In the year 1800 about one hundred Roman urns were found on Beeding Hill, near the confines of Edburton and Old Shoreham parishes. Roman coins innumerable have been and are continually found in Shoreham. Worthing has yielded important finds of pottery and a notable incised stone now in Lewes Castle Museum. The discovery of a Roman villa at Preston (Brighton) and another at West Blatchington, near Hove, seems to suggest that the highway from east to west before mentioned ran through those places.

From the foregoing we may infer that Roman civilisation influenced this part of the country to a considerable extent. Doubtless the native population were for the most part engaged in agriculture and other useful arts and as the centuries passed they almost forgot the use of arms.

So it was that after four hundred and fifty years, when Imperial Rome was distressed by troubles nearer home and was compelled to withdraw her legions from these shores, the Britons were left without military protection and became an easy prey to their enemies. In a few years horde after horde of Saxon pirates swooped down upon the unprotected shores of Britain. Very soon their keels were swarming into the creeks and penetrating up the rivers of this county.

 

 

The Saxons

In the year A.D. 477 the Saxon warrior, Ella, and his three sons, Cymen, Wenceling, and Cissa, " came to the land of Britain " and landed at Cymensora, the modern name of which is Kynor, near West Wittering. Another and somewhat later landing is said to have been at Shoreham. Tradition tells us that one of those sanguinary but fruitless struggles between the Romanized Britons and the Saxon invaders took place on Slonk Hill, northeast of Shoreham, and that the origin of the word " slonk " is to be found in the Saxon " slaught." The term " slonk-butcher" is still used in some parts of the country. It would appear that the hill-name has therefore some connection with slaughter North-east of the Slonk is another hill known as " Thunder's Barrow," possibly derived from Thor, the God of Thunder, to whom the Saxons offered sacrifices-it may be on this hill before they accepted Christianity as their religion.

Having been successful in establishing himself in the possession of the district comprised in the modern counties of Sussex and Surrey, Ella formed his newly acquired province into a kingdom, of which he became the first king. Cissa succeeding him in the government of this province, to which the part of Hampshire bordering on Sussex was afterwards added, made Regnum his chief place of residence. From this circumstance the name of the city was, out of compliment to him, shortly afterwards changed to Cissa-ceaster, from whence it derived its present name of Chichester.

In the valley of the Adur Saxon settlements soon began to appear, most of them doubtless on the sites of earlier villages whose inhabitants had been driven out or slaughtered by the invaders. In addition to establishing themselves on the old hill-forts on the high points of the Downs we find them settling at and naming many places in the neighbourhood and elsewhere. The Saxon terminations " ham," " ing " and " ton," common in the Adur Valley, indicate the abode of Saxon communities.

After the introduction of Christianity by St. Wilfrid, the exiled Bishop of York (A.D. 680) and its spread all through the South Saxon kingdom came the building of churches. These, of course, were at first of wood, but as the centuries passed they were replaced by more worthy buildings. The work of Saxon masons may still be seen at many places in Sussex and near at hand-Old Shoreham, St. Botolphs, further up the Adur, and at Sompting.

During the eighth century a somewhat remarkable man appeared in the Adur Valley, a Saxon saint named Cuthman. As a youth, before his coming thither, he dwelt in the West Saxon Kingdom and there tended his father's sheep. It was his daily custom to perform a miracle. On the approach of mid-day the shepherd boy would describe with his crook a circle round the flock, bidding the sheep in the name of the Lord not to stray beyond it during his absence at dinner.

After his father's death Cuthman and his mother were left in great poverty and were forced to leave their home. They set forth travelling eastward but the aged mother was too infirm to journey in any other way than by means of a wheelbarrow-couch, which her dutiful son constructed for her comfort and which he partially supported by means of a cord over his shoulders.

As they were thus passing through a certain hayfield the cord broke and Cuthman replaced it with elder twigs and thereupon was greatly ridiculed by the haymakers. This ill-timed levity was at once severely punished. A heavy storm forthwith broke over the field and destroyed the crop. Ever after, says the legend, a rain-storm visited that field at haymaking time. Cuthman and his mother journeyed on and came to Steyning. Again the cord broke and, as one writer says, " let down the old lady." This second mishap was supposed by the monkish chronicler to have been a divine intimation to the saint that his journey should now end, and possibly charmed with the delightful surroundings, he decided to settle there.

In due time St. Cuthman began to erect a church, but while the work was in progress a beam shifted and much of the building collapsed. Whilst he ruefully contemplated this disaster and thought on the vast amount of labour necessary to make it good, a stranger suddenly appeared and pointed out how the damage might be speedily repaired. Cuthman and his labourers followed the advice of the stranger, who also worked with them, until at length the sacred edifice was finished and beautified.

When all was complete the saint fell at the feet of this great. artizan and asked his name. " I am He in Whose honour thou hast raised this temple," he replied, and then vanished.

In the fulness of time Cuthman, with filial piety, laid his aged mother to rest, and later was himself buried in the church which he had built. Over his bones a shrine was erected and here pilgrims from far and near paid their devotions, and many wonderful cures were claimed to have been vouchsafed to the crippled and sick. The Saint's anniversary was anciently kept at Steyyning on February 8th. In the church porch may be seen what is most probably Cuthman's grave-slab. It bears a. rude double cross in low relief and is certainly of pre-Conquest date. A second slab, probably as old, may have covered the grave of the Saint's mother.

 

 

Steyning: A Port

So great was Cuthman's influence on the fortunes of the charming little town of Steyning that for several hundred years, after his death, and certainly as late as the beginning of the 12th century, it was known as St. Cuthman's Port.
Here in the year 858 King Ethelwulph, the father of Alfred the Great, was buried, but the body was afterwards taken up and re-buried at Winchester.

King Alfred had estates at Steyning and Beeding and bequeathed them to two of his nephews. The Steyning property afterwards reverted to the Crown and Edward the Confessor granted it to the Abbey of Fecamp, but afterwards revoked the grant at the instance of Earl Godwin, whose son, King Harold, held Steyning until his death at the Battle of Hastings. The Conqueror restored the estates to the monks of Fecamp, who thereupon sent over some of their number to form a priory or cell at Steyning. In process of time the church built by St. Cuthman gave place to one of nobler proportions erected by these monks and its beautiful arcades and lofty chancel arch remain to-day, a very fine example of Norman style. The Abbot of Fecamp had remarkable privileges in Steyning, among which may be noted that of punishing felons, hanging murderers, and disposing of their property. The town was important and in those days actually had more houses than Southampton or Bath. In the days of Edward the Confessor money was minted at Steyning.

Bramber

The Saxon kings had a stronghold at Bramber and at King's Barns near at hand a farmstead. Now but a picturesque village the former place possesses nothing of its ancient importance, yet this must have been considerable. The arm of the sea running up to Steyning was here of great breadth and washed the castle mound, whereon after the Conquest William de Braose, a kinsman of the Conqueror, to whom had been granted the territory known as the Rape of Bramber, erected his feudal stronghold. The area covered by this fortress was considerable, and its grim towers frowned upon the waters of the Adur for centuries, but to-day a few ivy-clad fragments are all that remain to tell us of its former grandeur. Of the little Norman church outside the castle walls, nave and tower are all that is preserved of a former cruciform building.

To the position of this stronghold at Bramber and to the influence of its powerful lords, many of whom figure in the early annals of English History as eminent barons, statesmen, and crusaders, the town of New Shoreham owes much of its early development and prosperity. It became and remained for some centuries one of the great highways to the Continent and one of the most flourishing sea ports.

William de Braose, viewing with jealous eye the power wielded at Steyning by the Abbot of Fecamp, where he also held some lands, determined to set up a religious establishment of his own. He founded, almost beneath his castle walls but on the opposite BRAMBER side of the river and, therefore, in Beeding, a Priory to be dependent upon the Benedictine Abbey of St. Florent, near Saumur in Anjou. The foundation charter of this Priory of Beading, or Sele, as it was more generally called, was dated 1075, and therein are mentioned the churches of St. Peter " of the old bridge " (de Veteriponte), St. Peter at Sele, St. Nicholas at Bramber, and St. Nicholas, Old Shoreham, which were granted to the monks of St. Florent to enable them to establish the Priory.

The situation of " the old bridge " mentioned in the charter is a matter of much uncertainty. While some maintain that it was at Bramber, many are disposed to believe that it carried the road across the river at Botolphs and that the church of St. Peter de Veteriponte stood upon it. Some believe that it was at this point that the Roman highway from east to west crossed over, and that if " the old bridge " was not the actual Roman bridge it was its successor. The designation "old" leads to the conclusion that the bridge was ancient in 1075.

 

 

Ancient Bridges

The first mention of a bridge actually at Bramber appears in an agreement of the year 1103, between the Abbot of Fecamp and Philip de Braose. Apparently then but recently erected it proved a great hindrance to the passage of ships up to the port of St. Cuthman. It was agreed that the bridge should be altered in such a manner " that ships shall freely pass at the bridge, going up and down according to such custom and quiet as they enjoyed at the time of King Edward " (the Confessor).

Returning once more to the " old bridge." If this was in existence in 1075, and to go much further back, in Saxon timesand it is only reasonable to believe that somewhere between Shoreham and Steyning the river was crossed by a bridge during that period, otherwise why was it referred to as " old " only nine years after Edward the Confessor's death ?-if this was in existence in Saxon times, surely, like the later bridge at Bramber, it must also have offered no small impediment to shipping unless there existed some means of opening or raising part of it to let the ships pass through, and there seems little reason to doubt that such would have been the case. The " old bridge " may have been constructed wholly of timber, much in the same manner as the present Old Shoreham Bridge, or again, its piers may have been of masonry and its spans of timber. The engineers who could construct a drawbridge over the moat of a castle, you may be sure, would not be at fault in devising some means of raising part of a bridge to let ships pass through.

In the year 1220 we find a reference to two bridges. John de Braose granted to the monks of Sele, among other possessions, " both the bridges of Bramber, three vassals with their lands situated on the east side of the little bridge, and five messuages next the greater bridge of Bramber to the west."

In the year 1348, John, Duke of Norfolk, Earl Marshal of England, confirmed to the Prior and monks of Sele, belonging to the Abbey of St. Florent, a grant made by his ancestor, John de Braose, of the Churches of St. Peter, Sele ; St. Nicholas, Bramber ; St. Nicholas, Old Shoreham ; St. Peter de Veteriponte, and St. Mary, Shoreham. tithes in various parishes and " all the grantor's bridges, etc., of Bramber, and timber for repairing the bridges." Also mills and fisheries in Bramber Water, five houses at the Port of Shoreham, and the third part of markets held in that town. The limits of the fisheries in the Water of Bramber are defined in the deed as " from the Church of Old Shoreham to a place called Bedenye."

Three years later Bishop Praty of Chichester held an enquiry into certain charges against the Prior of Sele. This took place in the Chapel of the Blessed Virgin Mary, " upon the bridge at Bramber."

In 1468 John Arundel, Bishop of Chichester, granted an Indulgence of forty days to all persons in his Diocese who contributed to the repair of Bramber Bridge and the causeway of the common road " leading from Bramber towards the eastern parts of England, and from the east to the west, which are now in so bad a condition that they cannot easily be repaired without the alms of the faithful."

Five years after this a charge was brought against Prior Alleyne of Sele that, through his neglect, " the chapel of St. Mary, belonging to the Priory (of Sele) on a certain great bridge of stone in the highway between Bramber and Sele, is, with the bridge, falling to ruin and cannot be sufficiently repaired for forty pounds," a considerable sum in those days.

Four years later, when the Priory of Sele and all its property had been surrendered to Magdalene College, Oxford, there was an agreement between Bishop Waynflete, the founder of the College, and John Cowper of Winchester, mason. The latter was to " stapul and hew " one hundred loads of stone at a quarry in the Isle of Wight, and therewith repair the pillars of Bramber Bridge in Sussex, for which work the Bishop was to pay £19 and provide the carriage of stone and lime and sand, and timber for the scaffolds. As much of the old stone as possible was to be re-used and if more than one hundred loads of new stone was required, then the Bishop was to pay 3s. 4d. for each additional load. It would appear that these repairs were duly carried out, as in January, 1479-80, John Cowper acknowledged the receipt of certain moneys for work already done on the " peris, ventis, arches and wallis " of the bridge, and there was a further agreement to " stapul and hew " sufficient stone for the further repair of the bridge, paid for " at a quarry in the county of Sussex and at a quarry in the Isle of Wight." These repairs were to be fully completed before the following Michaelmas and John Cowper was to receive in payment twenty marks " and a gown !" This " great bridge of stone " is known to have consisted of several arches, and its foundations were discovered many years ago in making up the causeway which leads from Bramber to the insignificant modern Beeding Bridge, which is now sufficient to carry the road over the river at this point.

 

 

The Middle Ages

THE TOWN AND HARBOUR IN THE MIDDLE AGES-CHANGES IN COASTLINE-THE ORIGIN OF NEW SHOREHAM-HAVOC WROUGHT BY THE SEA--SITUATION OF THE MEDIAEVAL HARBOUR-DECLINE OF THE TOWN-EXCUSED FROM TAXATION-REVIVAL OF ITS INDUSTRY-OLD ROADS INTO THE TOWN.

Documents of early date present several variants of the name of our town. Domesday Book (1086) gives Soresham and later we find Soreham, Scoreham, Schorham, Sorham, Shoram and Shorham, but not until late in the 13th century is either " Old " or " New " used as a prefix to distinguish the one place from the other.

In an Assize Roll of 1263 the situation of certain property is described as in " Great Schorham " and a few years later there is a reference to a messuage in "parva Schorham " (Little Schorham). These terms doubtless refer to acreage and not to the relative importance of the two places. The area of New Shorehameven at that time a considerable town-was decidedly " little " in comparison with that of Old Shoreham, of which, indeed, it was formerly part. In the 7th year of Edward I. and again in the 15th of Edward II. we find the more ancient place described as " Eldesorham."

* Old Shoreham Parish has an area of 1,923 acres, but Now Shoreham has only 135 acres.
(" Victoria History of Sussex.")

The new town usually appears as " Nova Shorham," but we find it written "Neushorham " for the first time in an Assize Roll dated 16th Edward I. (1288).
In 1324 Roger de Stratton was summoned by writ to answer the charge of having unjustly disseised Isabel, daughter of Walter Randolph of Horsham, of her free tenement " in Shorham." Roger de Stratton appeared and actually contended that " the writ need not be responded to, because." said he," the tenement named is in New Shorham and there is no town in this county called Shorham without an adjunct." The same individual, with a desire for accuracy of spelling not usually associated with those early times, says that " he is called Roger de Stretton and not de Stratton as it is put in the writ."

The jurors in the above case said on oath that the tenement in question was in New Shorham, " there being in the county towns called Old and New Shorham and no town called Shorham without one or other of these adjuncts." They also declared that Isabel was seised of the said tenement until Roger unjustly disseised her, to her damage 40 shillings.

While the obverse of the ancient borough seal informs us that the town is " Nova Shorham Brewes " (New Shorham, Braose) a free translation of the legend on the reverse tells us that " this sign of a hulk is worthy of my name, for I am called Hulkesmouth." And so it appears in a deed of 1302 relating to the ferry "across the water of Hulkesmouth with appurtenances in New Shorham," and again in 1457, when John Wody and Robert Oxenbrigge, executors of the will of Richard Wakehurst, and the Prior and Convent of Lewes answer for the profits of 60 acres of land "in the port of Hulkesmouth alias Shorham.". The maps showing the outline of the coast and the plan showing the probable arrangement of the town itself during the Middle Ages should perhaps be accompanied by a few words of explanation. At first sight it may appear that there can be very little data to go upon in attempting to re-construct the mediaeval town or in forming an idea of the coast outline in that far-off time. 'More closely considered, however, certain documentary evidence, combined with existing appearances, seems likely to enable us to form conjectures which may not be far from the truth.

With reference to the maps showing the coast-line. It will be noticed that two lines are drawn through and cross each other in the churchyard of New Shoreham ; one runs north and south, the other west and east, and the latter continues slightly south of Kingston Church.

These are intended as datum lines from which the amount of coast alteration may be estimated, being drawn in identically the same places on all the maps. It is not contended, of course, that these maps show all the fluctuations that have taken place, nor do they exhaust the number of different river-mouths that have been formed from time to time. Indeed, almost every few hundred yards between Shoreham and Portslade seems to have provided the site for a mouth at one time or another,and once more at least (in 1760) the river again found its way straight out to sea at Shoreham for a while. The most easterly mouth ever formed seems to have been very nearly three-quarters of the entire distance east from old Aldrington Church to old Hove Church.

The earlier maps of this series are founded on documentary and inferential evidence. The 16th century one is based on the Armada map of that period, while the later ones are based on 17th and 18th century maps, one of the former being a very rare map in the Admiralty Library.

Saturday, 26 June 2010 14:40

Napoleonic Army Camps in Shoreham

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Evidence of Late 18th and Early 19th Century Army Camps in Shoreham

During the Napoleonic Wars the threat of invasion by the French caused Britain to strengthen its defences along the south coast in readiness. Initially, more troops were redeployed to the south followed later by other defensive precautions such as the Martello Towers which were built along the Kent and East Sussex coasts. Barracks were set up, most were intended only as temporary accommodation for the troops but the one along the Lewes Road near Brighton became permanent and survived into the 20th century as Preston Barracks. There were others further inland but the local coastal camps were at Blatchington (Hove), Southwick, New Shoreham and Worthing. 

Preston aside, New Shoreham was the first and most used of these barracks which housed the soldiers and any wives and children that followed them. Whether it was a requirement of coastal parishes of the time or simply the diligence of the parish clerk, the New Shoreham Parish Records recorded the regimental names against marriage and burial entries for all the soldiers and their wives as well as the baptism of their children. Far from being a precise record it nevertheless gives some idea of the regiments that were billeted to the town and how long they were here.

An examination of the New Shoreham Land Tax Records in conjunction with the 1782 Survey of the town tells us exactly where the army camps or barracks were. Perhaps surprisingly, they were nearer to the town centre than may have been thought. The nearest were at the west end of the High Street on two plots of land known as Mill Green and Kings Head. 

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Detail from the 1782 Survey map showing the barracks at Mill Green (134) and Kings Head (117)

Mill Green Barracks 1801 – 1810 first appear around 1801, owned by John Rice – Mill Green is shown on the 1782 Survey map as being between today’s Ropetackle Hard and the road bridge and extended into about half of the residential block that includes the Arts Centre.  By 1810 the site seems to have reverted to non-military use.

Kings Head Barracks 1801 - 1816
owned by Thomas Tillstone also appears. The Kings Head was thought to have been trading as an inn even as early as 1724 and the property included the land behind it. It is mentioned again in 1807 and again in 1810 by which time ownership had passed to Benjamin Tillstone who remained owner up until 1816, the last time the barracks were included in the Land Tax lists.

Neither plots of land are particularly large although collectively they are more significant and would have accommodated a considerable number of men, perhaps initially in tents and later in rough wooden huts.                                                                 

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Detail from the 1782 Survey showing New Barn Field (146) and Wickers Field (147) with the three Trinity Cottages (162) above. (Plots 151 and 49 below them to the right are mentioned later)

Starr Barracks 1795 –1823. By far the largest was in the combined area of New Barn Field and Wickers Field, the land now bounded by Southdown (then called New Barn Lane) and Ravens Roads on the west, east and south and Mill Lane to the north. Known as Starr Barracks it is shown under ownership of the Bridger family who owned much of the land and fields to the north of the town then.  A house (possibly Trinity Cottages) owned or leased by John Boyce senior was also included. By 1801 John Boyce is shown as having purchased the property and in 1807 Starr Barracks together with “Starr Barracks Field” are shown together in 1807. By 1814 ownership passed to John Innott after the death of Boyce, then a Mr. Heyther acquired it by 1816 and he sold it on by 1823 to Thomas Clayton, the Shoreham  cement  manufacturer who had his ‘cement manufactury’ by Star Gap. There is no further mention of Starr Barracks thereafter but more on the regiments that stayed there previously is covered later.

Before all this, one of the most common sights in Shoreham would have been the blue coat uniforms of the numerous customs officers in and around the Church Street Custom House. From 1795 the sight of red coated soldiers in town would also have become increasingly common, especially in the inns and particularly the Kings Head where the Tillstone family as owners would doubtless have benefitted from the custom of their new tenants. 

During the earlier years the soldiery was made up of militia from around the country. These were not part of the regular, standing army but county units, used for home defence only and raised by ballot from the parishes. It was a fairly loose arrangement and anyone selected could sometimes avoid duty by swopping places with a willing replacement or by paying a sum if he was able to afford it. Marching incredibly long distances one of the first to arrive in Shoreham (1795) were the North Fencibles followed by the Cumberland Militia (1796) which, with the Montgomery Militia that they later joined with, maintained a fairly consistent presence in the town throughout the period. Uniforms then would have been identical to the regular army regiments for each county involved, various differences to the colour of facings (collars and cuffs) but with the usual red infantry/militia coats. Whether all the men though were provided with uniforms from the outset is perhaps questionable.

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A Regiment of Foot arriving in New Shoreham.
Viewed from Star Lane (Church Street) the officer appears to be looking thoughtfully towards the Swan Inn.









 

 

 

 

 

 

Some units were at Shoreham for a short while only whilst others (like the Cumberland & Montgomery) obviously stayed longer. It also seems that complete regiments did not always encamp at one site only, rather spreading their resources with a view to defending nearby towns and villages as well. We know this from the regimental records of the Bedfordshire Militia for example who in November 1796 went into winter quarters at Shoreham with detachments at Southwick, Worthing, Cuckfield  and Littlehampton but did not remain there long and moved to new barracks that had been built at Horsham on 24th December 1796. A regiment of regulars, the 40th Regiment of Foot, were in barracks at Steyning and Blatchington but not Shoreham.

It wasn’t until 1804 that units of the regular army started to arrive as we discover from a burial entry of May 1st 1804 “Thomas Parker  27  Private  91st Regiment of Regulars collapsed on parade and died shortly afterwards.” -  this was the famous 91st Regiment of Foot drawn from two Scottish counties better known as the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders in later years.  Another burial of 18th October 1805 records that William Coltman  41 Quartermaster  1st Regiment of Dragoons “accidentally drowned in Lancing Brooks near Mr. Holmes’ farm.” A number of deaths from smallpox occurred in 1804 mainly involving the soldiers’ infant children and there were also casualties among Shoreham townsfolk. One final entry of note was that of Henry Medley Kilvington “a barrack-master near 60” buried on 12th February 1808 and whose memorial was once in St.Mary’s church but has since disappeared.

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The 1st Kings Dragoon Guards
Left, the updated uniform and helmet at the time of Waterloo
Right, as they looked when at Shoreham


Apart from the regular infantry (the 78th Regiment of Foot in 1805, the 35th in 1806 and the 4th, 5th and 44th in 1814) other regiments here included cavalry units. The 4th Queens Own Dragoon Guards made an appearance in 1805 and again in 1809, the 6th Inneskillen (or ‘Inniskilling’ as it was often officially spelt) Dragoons from December 1805 to April 1807, the 11th Dragoons in 1806, the 7th (1811) and 10th Light Dragoons (1816) but by far the longest stays appear to be the 1st Regiment Kings Dragoon Guards whose register entries span from May 1804 to October 1805 then again in December 1807;  and the 6th Dragoon Guards (The Carabiniers) from December 1805 to April 1807 which indicates that they  were not both in Shoreham at the same time.

The Kings Dragoon Guards had fought at the battle of Blenheim 1704, the Netherlands Campaign of 1793-5 and, after Shoreham, took part in the Battle of Waterloo. The 6th Dragoon Guards specialised in fighting with a light, short-barrelled rifle (carabinier) and went on to participate in the Peninsula Wars in Spain. Both were cavalry regiments and their men and horses must have been stationed at Starr Barracks which was the only barracks large enough to have taken them even if (as is probable) only part of the total complement of men and animals were included.

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Left: Detail from Thomas Budgen’s 1797 map (courtesy The British Library OSD 93 (PT3)
Right: Detail from the 1817 map of New Shoreham


This was the lower two-thirds of New Barn/Wickers Fields although it is believed that the top third including the three cottages would also have been used to accommodate the officers and provide an exercise yard for the horses.  Thomas Budgen’s map of 1797 includes Shoreham and shows the barracks and the huts within it. Wooden huts were usually used to accommodate the lower ranks but it seems that more substantial living quarters or stabling was also constructed as, in recent times, the remains of flint and mortar walls were discovered in the rear garden of 28 Southdown Road (on the east side of the road) believed to be part of a stable block for the earlier barracks which was mentioned in the older property deeds for the house. Number 28 coincides with what appears to be the main/largest building on the extreme north/west corner of the barracks field. The Budgen map shows an alteration of the New Barn/Wickers fields boundaries from that on the 1782 Survey and this later division is still reflected in the 1817 Shoreham map after the military had left. What is intriguing though is that the apparent later use as cultivated individual nursery/garden plots and paths seems to reflect in part the earlier layout of the camp huts.
 
The number of regiments in Shoreham peaked at 9 in 1806 but thereafter rapidly declined as troops were shipped to Spain for the Peninsula Wars (1807 – 1814) and the threat of invasion subsided.  However, the parish registers in reveal another interesting flurry of activity in February, June and August of 1814 when the 4th, 5th and 44th Regiments of Foot were here – perhaps passing through on their way to the larger transport ships at Portsmouth for service abroad. 

Thereafter the military activity in Shoreham seems sparse which is confirmed by a Brighton history of 1824 that mentions a military barracks in Shoreham but by then was ‘not of great magnitude.’  Shoreham historian Henry Cheal writes that this was situated on the site of Buckingham Gardens on the south west corner of Ravens Road which at the time of the 1782 Survey were plots 151 called Stone Croft and 49 with two tenements adjoining the west of the former (see the New Barn Field map above). However, there is no record of this in the Land Tax records and there does not appear to have been any further significant military occupation of the town until WW1.

Roger Bateman
Shoreham June 2010




New Shoreham Parish Register entries with regimental annotation
(Old Shoreham registers show only two army related entries for the same period)
North Fencibles May 1795 (recorded as a ‘regiment’ but was in fact a militia)
Cumberland Militia   March 1796; July, October and November 1808
Cornish Militia   1797
Denbighshire Militia 1799
Derbyshire Militia   1799
Sussex Militia October 1799, March and April 1804
Hereford Militia   1799 and March 1804
South Gloucester Militia   February 1803 and March 1804
91st Regiment of Regulars May 1804, June 1809
Glamorgan Militia   April 1804
Dorset Militia June 1804
1st Regiment (Kings Dragoon Guards) May, June, August 1804; August, October 1805; April and December 1807
North Hants Militia March, April 1805, 1807
2nd Battalion 78th Regiment of Foot September 1805
4th Regiment of Dragoons (Queens Own Dragoons) October 1805; June, July1809, 1810
6th Inneskillen Dragoons  Dec 1805
6th Dragoon Guards (The Carabieners) Feb, March, April, May, June, September, November 1806 and April 1807
South Hants Militia  March, April, July 1806; June, July 1807; January, February 1808
11th Regiment of Light Dragoons   April 1806
35th Regiment of Foot   April 1806
South Devon Militia   May 1806
West Essex Militia   Sept, Oct, Nov, December 1806; January 1814
8th Regiment of Foot March 1808
Montgomery Militia June, July, October, November, December 1808
7th Dragoons Sept & Nov 1811
44th Regiment of Foot Feb 1814
5th Regiment of Foot June 1814
4th Regiment of Foot August 1814
10th Dragoons June 1816

Numbers of regiments in occupation at Shoreham at various times in any one year as indicated by the entries. 
(Where there are no parish entries in a year it does not of course necessarily mean there was no military presence at all in the town then)
 1795 = 1; 1796 = 1; 1797 = 1; 1799 = 3; 1803 = 1; 1804 = 7; 1805 = 6; 1806 = 9; 1807 = 4; 1808 = 4; 1809 = 1; 1811 = 1; 1814 = 4; 1816 = 1.

Reference Sources:-
1782 Survey of New Shoreham
Land Tax Records for New Shoreham
Parish Poor Rates for New Shoreham
Parish Registers for New Shoreham
The Story of Shoreham by Henry Cheal
Computer enhanced/coloured copy of 1782 Survey Map in Shoreham Reference Library



Thursday, 10 June 2010 09:21

The Signal Station

Written by

Shoreham, an important seaport especially during the Georgian and Victorian periods, had a signal station. Early maps show the location at Slonk Hill.

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   Detail from Hurd's 1812 Admiralty Chart of the South Coast (courtesy of the National Maritime Museum) 

 
It was one in a chain of stations along the south coast between the major seaports of Portsmouth and Dover, the more local stations being Worthing (Broadwater Parish), Shoreham and Hawk Hill (East Brighton).  Both Portsmouth and Dover were connected with a further chain of signal stations to the Admiralty in London. HM Coastguard also had a system of communicating especially to combat smuggling and report shipwrecks. The stations took the form of semaphore and shutter towers. For signalling over shorter distances, masts using signal flags were also used. The signal stations were usually manned by an officer and two glassmen - despatch riders were also kept on hand to relay important messages to certain addresses.

 

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 Left:- A model of the Portsdown shutter station of clapper board construction.
Right:- An internal view showing two glassmen with telescopes and two ropemen operating the shutters.
(images courtesy of www.portsdown-tunnels.org.uk)
 
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Telegraph Tower, Portsmouth (photo author)     

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The importance of signal buildings is shown in the Telegraph Tower at Portsmouth, still looking prim over the Royal Naval Dockyard Headquarters. One famous message sent to the Admiralty from Falmouth was the news of the great sea victory at Trafalgar and the death of Nelson.  Shoreham’s coastguard blockhouse with its signalling flagmast was situated at the south-west corner of Ferry Road with Beach Road. A signal sent from the Admiralty to Portsmouth would take an average of 7.5 minutes, whereas a rider would have taken 4.5 hours. The only disadvantage was the lack of daylight.

Gerald White.
June 2010



It is not generally appreciated (except by railway history enthusiasts) that before the formation of the London, Brighton and South Coast Railway proper (1846), the railway line to Shoreham (initially the line ended here and was not extended to Worthing until 1845) was the first part of the then London & Brighton Railway to be opened (1840) for traffic – one year before the line from Brighton to Haywards Heath and eventually to London.

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Consequently, the opening of Brighton station was on the same day as the opening of the Shoreham line and this took place on Monday, May 11th, 1840. Despite the restrictions of the Second World War the centenary of the event was marked by an exhibition at the Brighton Pavilion in 1940 and amongst the Winton family albums and scrapbooks is a guidebook of the exhibition describing the events leading up to and including the original opening and detailing the exhibits on display. This article brings together written records of the 1840 opening and some of the illustrations listed in the guidebook.

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Excavation in progress in New England Cutting about 1839. View looking west. (courtesy Brighton Museum & Art Gallery) 

  The line was cut through New England Hill and many hundreds of workers were employed in the massive job to excavate the chalk and earth, first through the hill and then on to Hove, Portslade, Southwick and Shoreham. To assist in this two locomotives were purchased by the London & Brighton to transport railway lines, sleepers and carry away earth and chalk excavated during the construction of the line. Both were made by Jones, Turner and Evans at their Viaduct Foundry, Newton Le Willows in 1839. One was  a 2-2-2 wheel configuration (from the side the wheel arrangement of the engine looked like oOo) numbered 1 by the L&B and named ‘Brighton’, the other was ‘Shoreham’  an 0-4-2 (OOo) configuration and numbered 2. Known as the’ Jones Singles’ (they only had one pair of driving wheels on one axle as did most locomotives then) - ‘Shoreham’ was later taken over by the South Eastern Railway Company in 1844.

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Top Left & Below - Model of the 'Brighton' locomotive at Marlipins Museum, Shoreham by Sea (photos author)
Right - The 'Ajax' built in 1841 by Jones Turner & Evans for the Austrian Railways and is likely to have been virtually identical to the 'Shoreham.'

John George Bishop 1825 - 1911, a Brighton historian and for many years proprietor of the Brighton Herald, wrote of the event in his book "A Peep into the Past or Brighton in the Olden Time":-
“The first portion of the Company's system opened for traffic was that running between Brighton and Shoreham, the event taking place on Monday, May 11th, 1840. Most of the Directors were present on the occasion and there was a very large number of spectators. No one was admitted inside the Station without a ticket but 1,000 of these having been issued, entitling the bearer to take the trip gratuitously there was not for short of that number who availed themselves of it.
The first train started about three o'clock, amid the strains of the Lancers' Band and the cheers of the spectators, to the majority of whom the Railway train was a "new sensation." The trip occupied eleven and a half minutes the return trip taking a trifle longer. The train continued running throughout the afternoon, and the scene down the whole Line was exceedingly animated, crowds of persons assembling at the different points to witness its passing. "Business" commenced next morning at eight from Shoreham, the train returning from Brighton at nine. During the day 1,750 passengers were carried, not a few visiting the Swiss Gardens, where the opening of the Railway was celebrated by a grand féte.

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Coloured print by Charles Hunt of the Opening Ceremony and the first train leaving Brighton for Shoreham May 11th 1840. (courtesy Brighton Museum & Art Gallery)

Business went along pleasantly for the remainder of the week and for day after day hundreds embraced the opportunity of a railway ride. On the Sunday evening, however, a fatal accident occurred. A young man named Atherell, who was incautiously sitting on the tail-board of a luggage wagon, which had been temporarily used to accommodate the extra traffic at Shoreham, was at Southwick precipitated by a sudden jerk beneath the train and killed on the spot.”

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The London & Brighton’s first advertisement

Even in those early days the excitement of travelling on the railway was tempered by the discomfort that passengers had to endure. Having been able to experience for himself in his later life the relative comfort and luxury of late Victorian railway coaches compared to the days of early railway travel , Bishop continues:- “The original third-class carriages were of the poorest description, little better than cattle trucks. They were wholly uncovered, and some had not even the accommodation of seats, the divisions of the sections in each carriage being simply an iron rail. Travelling under such circumstances was the reverse of pleasurable: the dust and smoke from the engine were annoying in the extreme; but worse than these will., the almost constant descent of fine ashes  and umbrellas were in frequent requisition by passengers to prevent these getting into the eyes and to avoid the chance of a burn. Their condition when these unpleasant concomitants were associated with a high wind or a driving rain may be better imagined than described. By and by "covered carriages" were introduced, but without windows! These latter luxuries, with, in some cases, cushions, &c., are modern improvements, which were altogether unknown to the "Parliamentarians" in the earlier days of Railway travelling.” (third class carriages then were known as’ Parliamentary Carriages.’)

The opening was also covered by the Brighton Gazette and witnessed by 'thousands of townspeople' from the hillsides around the station whose first sight this would have been of a means of transport that would revolutionise the nineteenth century.  Interestingly, it discloses a problem on the day that held up the proceedings – something that the other records of the event have chosen to ignore:-
"The engine selected for the first trip was `Kingston', conducted by Jackson, the engine driver who has been employed for the last twelve months In working the Brighton and Shoreham for the removal of earth along the line. Next to the tender were two first class carriages, each containing about 40 persons, consisting of a number of the Directors, and the principal tradesmen and local officers of the town. Then followed two second class and two first class carriages, principally to the use of ladies and containing 20 persons each. The rear was brought up by three of the luggage wagons, which had been fitted with forms containing accommodation for 70 other passengers, making the number taken In the first trip about 230.
Precisely at 3pm the whistle was blown but a locked 'break' (sic) made a delay of 11 minutes.” (the report fails to include the fact that it was the L & B’s own engineer John Urpeth Rastrick himself that had to take leave of the directors and dignitaries to release the engine’s jammed brake) “The train 'passed the station house at Copperas Gap at 18 minutes past three, the entrance to the harbour at 23 minutes past three and arrived at Shoreham at 23 minutes after three'. During the day upwards of a 1,000 people travelled the five and a half miles behind the engines "Kingston" and "Eagle".

 Kingston was the locomotive to pull the first train from Brighton to Shoreham but both that and the Eagle shared the trips up and down the line that day. Kingston was a 2-2-2 configuration engine built by Sharp Roberts & Co at their Atlas Works in Manchester and delivered to L & B in 1839. It was designated engine number 5 then re-numbered 39 after the company became LB&SCR. EAGLE was also a 2-2-2 configuration but built by G & J. Rennie in 1840. It was number 6 with L&B and became no.39 with LBSCR.– this design was susceptible to explosion and the sister engine ‘Vulture’ did just that at Brighton station.

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A later Sharp Roberts & Co locomotive that was originally built in 1849 for the LB&SCR.This particular engine was involved in an accident, rebuilt and transferred to the Coln Valley and Halstead Railway. The earlier models including ‘Kingston’ would not have had the luxury of protective windshields and surrounds


Henry Cheal, the Shoreham historian when writing of the town’s original station tells us “The Railway Station has been once rebuilt. Many will recall to mind its predecessor with the old "box-like" waiting room on the down-side, out of which one went up a flight of steps on to the platform.”

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Shoreham Station in 1870 showing the early signalling: Three positioned home and starter on the extreme right, a revolving disc set as a ‘distant’ signal in centre and junction “splitting” posts in distance - the latter can just be made out in the circle enlargement. The waiting room can also be seen below the level of the platform as mentioned by Cheal.
(Photos Winton Collection)

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Timetable from ‘Bradshaw’s Railway and Steam Navigation Guide’ number XVI from 1843.

The Shoreham details on the timetable image are not clear but are:-

 “Shoreham Branch
From Brighton to Shoreham daily except Sundays 7½,9,10½ a.m.;12¼,2½ ,5, 7 p.m.
Shoreham to Brighton daily, except Sundays 8½,9½,11 a.m. 1,3,5 30, and 7 30 p.m. On Sundays, from Brighton to Shoreham, 9 a.m. ; 2¼, 3¾, 5¼, &6¾ p.m. From Shoreham to Brighton, 10 a.m; 2¾, 4¼, 6, & 8 p.m.
FARES. - First class. 1s; second class 9d; third class 6d.
All the trains on the Shoreham Branch are mixed trains calling at the intermediate stations of Hove, Portslade, Southwick and Kingston to take on and set down passengers. Children under seven years of age charged half fare. No charge for infants in arms.”

Bishop also mentions Kingston, not so much as a station stop but as a depot for refuelling:- “stations are erecting at Hove and Kingston, at the latter coals and merchandise will be stored that are intended for conveyance by the trains, coke ovens have also been constructed at Kingston for preparing fuel for the engines".
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 The bridge at Kingston Lane - said to be 'original and unaltered' since its construction in 1839 (photo Sussex ArchaeologicalSociety Collection PP_SHORM_89.379)

 

 

 

 

 

Later Developments
Of course, it was never intended that the line would remain with Shoreham as its terminus and the next town on the agenda was Worthing. The River Adur however was a major obstacle and it was necessary to construct a wooden trestle bridge to carry the line across it.

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A train crossing the original wooden trestle bridge over the River Adur
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  

Years later after the wooden bridge had been replaced Cheal wrote of it:- “The original trestle bridge over the Adur becoming unsafe, was replaced about 1896 by the present steel bridge designed by Sir John Aird. The supporting cylinders are filled with concrete and some of them find a firm footing 70 feet in the river-bed. With this fact in mind, it is surprising that the former bridge of wood had served its purpose for so many years."

Eventually, on November 24th, 1845, Worthing received its first railway passengers and work on the line continued to Chichester which it reached on June 8th, 1846. The junction from Shoreham to Partridge Green was opened 1st July, 1861 and the extension from there on to Horsham on 16th September, 1861.

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1861 poster announcing the opening of the branch line to Partridge Green before it was extended to Horsham

Locomotives given the name ‘Shoreham.’

There were three engines named ‘Shoreham’ the first in 1839 was used in the construction of the Shoreham branch line and has already been described.  The second was built by Nasmyth, Wilson and Co in 1867 and was one of six similar engines purchased by LBSCR known as the Nasmyth Wilson Singles. These were 6ft.6in express engines of 2-2-2 configuration and ‘Shoreham’ was the company’s engine number 238.

The third was designed and built by R.J.Billinton at the Brighton Works. We know more about this engine:- it was an 0-4-4T configuration bogie passenger tank engine, numbered 389 intended for country and semi-fast trains and for the technically minded -  coupled wheels 5ft6in, cylinders 18in x 26in, working pressure 160lb, heating surface 1,203.44 sq.ft, grate area 17.08 sq.ft and weight in working order 48 and a half tons. Tanks were round-edged type with a combined capacity of 1,161 gallons. It was completed in May of 1894, designated the number 389, later becoming known as one of the Class D3 tank engines. Competition between railway companies was intense, particularly between LBSCR and the South Eastern Railway and in 1895 this particular locomotive carried out a ‘specimen’ run pulling a load equal to 9 and a half coaches on the Oxted line and managed just under 57 minutes including dead stands at an agreed number of stations and stops – this emphasised the LBSCR’s practice at the time of fast trains over shorter distances. This engine was eventually taken over by British Railways in 1948.
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The Billinton D3 class locomotive ‘Shoreham’ (author’s collection)

Roger Bateman
Shoreham
May 2010

 

Sources :-
‘A Peep into the Past or Brighton in Olden Time’ by John George Bishop published 1892,
‘The London, Brighton and South Coast Railway’ by C.Hamilton Ellis 1960
‘Locomotives of the London, Brighton and South Coast Railway, Part 1’ by D.L.Bradley 1969,
 ‘SUSSEX MAIN LINES - A YEAR 2002 SURVEY’ by John Blackwell
 Lists of LBSCR Locomotives – the Brighton Circle website
‘The Story of Shoreham’ by Henry Cheal 1921

In his time Albert Edward Longstaff was a household name in Brighton, in the county and beyond; his image and exploits appeared in many postcards, football team photos and newspaper reports during the first part of the twentieth century.

Image Born in 1885 in Shoreham of parents John and Sarah and one of four brothers and two sisters living for a short while at the family home at Queens Place before moving to their more permanent home in Victoria Road. His father was a Durham man, an agricultural engine driver experienced in steam ploughing who later used his knowledge to become a traction engine agent for the Shoreham and surrounding area.


Whilst living at Queens Place the Longstaff family would have been close neighbours (just one door away in fact) of Shoreham Football Club manager and secretary Oswald Ball who doubtless recognised Albert’s footballing abilities from a young age, and perhaps encouraged him (and his brothers) with a view to enlisting him in the town’s team. Oswald was a teacher who became headmaster at Ham Road school in 1901 and may even have been there earlier as a teacher when Albert attended the school as a pupil.After junior school at Ham Road Albert followed his brothers to York Place Intermediate School opposite St.Peter’s church in Brighton – a fee paying school charging 9d a week for its education and he would have travelled to Brighton daily in the company of a number of other boys from Shoreham who attended the same school.


Albert played initially for Shoreham Excelsior, a now defunct club, before progressing to Shoreham FC Reserves and then to the town’s First XI who played their matches at the Oxen Field.  He was just seventeen when he first played for Shoreham in the West Sussex Senior League in season 1902-3, the year that they first won the Sussex Senior Cup.

 

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  This dot print postcard (from the Winton Collection) shows the Shoreham F.C. team of season 1904-5 and shows Albert as a nineteen year old sitting second from left in the front row. In those days our team, formed in 1892, was something of a force in the county and, before the nearby Brighton club became more prominent, townsfolk would flock to the Oxen Field when home games were being played. Shoreham F.C. 1904-5. The full line-up is thought to be:- standing  at the back left to right W.J.Brooker and Oswald Ball. Middle Row:- Alf Maple, Frank Longstaff (Albert’s brother),  Art Maple, Ernest Ayling, E. D.Gates, George Gates, F. Rose. Front Row:- H. Upton, A.E. Longstaff, W.J.Elmer, C.E.Peake. (more information on them is included with the 1905-6 team photo).

By now Albert, or Bert as he was commonly known, was gaining the interest of the professional clubs as well as the Sussex County selectors. An approach was made to him from Tottenham Hotspur but turned down owing to his parent’s influence in wanting their son to remain at home. It was the season of 1905–6 that brought Shoreham’s and Bert’s greatest honours to date when they won a county ‘treble’ by taking the Sussex Senior Cup, the Royal Ulster Rifles Charity Cup and the West Sussex League championship.
 

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The photo (from the Sussex Archaeological Society Collection image no. 89.706) of the successful team with their trophies that appeared in the local newspapers in 1906. Instead of using the Oxen Field for the shot the uninspiring backdrop looks to be more like the back of the buildings on the riverside behind the High Street. The trophies are from left to right:- Royal Ulster Rifles Charity Cup, West Sussex Senior League Cup and Sussex Senior Cup.

The names of those in this photo and who they were are left to right back row:- Full back George A. Gates 24, carpenter and son of William Gates who ran the successful builders and undertakers business in Brunswick Road;  W.J. Brooker 33, the goalkeeper who had a painting and decorating business on Dolphin Hard (his sign can be seen on some old photos of the hard); Art Maple (Arthur) 26, full back, was the son of oyster merchant Sam Maple – Arthur was a fisherman and also assisted in the running of the family’s fish shop business. In 1908 he married Ivy, one of the daughters of William E. Winton who organised the town’s regattas and carnivals.


 Middle row:- President of the club Doctor Henry Reeks 33, who’s practice was at St.John’s House in John  Street; Half backs:- Frank Stubbings 25, a cycle maker from Steyning; Alfred Maple 29, brother of Arthur (above); William John Elmer 28, a labourer living at Norfolk Cottages in the Ropetackle area; Secretary and Manager Oswald Ball, 35  headmaster of Ham Road School who is previously described; James Edward Hackett 25 the trainer - he was a well known athlete in his own right, the Sussex Half Mile Champion in 1913 and went on to become a gifted amateur dramatic actor who starred in shows at the Theatre Royal  in Brighton as well as in Shoreham’s numerous amateur productions during the twenties and thirties.


Front row:- forwards Wallace Slaughter 22 the son of Edwin who ran the greengrocery shop in the High Street; Albert  Edward. Longstaff 21;  Ernest Digby Gates 26 (captain) went on to run a successful auctioneering business in Shoreham, son of the wealthy ship-owner Thomas who lived at the prestigious Athole House in New Road;  Harry Upton 22, one of the prolific and well known Shoreham family of that name that lived in Surrey Street;  Charles Edward Peak 26, a fruit grower who owned the  Southdown Nursery in Southdown Road and like Digby Gates became prominent members of the town council.

 

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Gates & Sons’ shop in Brunswick Road, Shoreham. A poor quality photo but a relevant one with the shop window displaying the trophies won by Shoreham F.C. in 1906. George Gates was one of the players in the record breaking team. (Winton Collection)

All this success soon brought fresh interest from the professional clubs and by the next season (1906-7) Bert had signed on as an amateur with Brighton & Hove Albion, then in the Southern League, before becoming a professional player with them the following year. In those days the Southern League was more of a force in English football and was almost on a par with the Football League itself. Initially used in the inside right-position he was quickly recognised to be most effective on the right-wing where he rapidly became a favourite with Albion fans as a local boy made good. He was a highly successful goal scorer himself but his crosses from the wing to his inside forwards particularly resulted in many goals for the club.

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A penny postcard that was sold in its hundreds to Brighton fans. The owner of this particular copy wrote upon it additional information concerning Bert’s earlier teams and his first benefit year (from the Winton Collection)


During the 1910-11 season Brighton were drawn in the F.A. Cup against Leeds United (then Leeds City in the second division of the Football League). It is a report of this match (included here verbatim) that provides us with a glimpse of Bert in action:-


“Although City were unhappy about the Brighton opening goal, they could have no complaints about the overall result. Brighton started brightly and before five minutes had elapsed Bert Longstaff crossed from the goal-line, with Leeds complaining the ball had gone out of play, but Harry Bromage could only parry the cross and Bill 'Bullet' Jones had the rebound in the net in a flash. City were on level terms five minutes before the interval after some brilliant work by Billy McLeod. He had already tested the Brighton Goalkeeper, Bob Whiting, on several occasions, and he now he tried to lob the ball over the keeper's head and, after it hit the bar, Hugh Roberts was on hand to rifle the ball home from the rebound.


City, however, failed to build on that goal and after sixty-five minutes they fell behind again. Bert Longstaff found himself in lots of space on the right and from his accurate cross Bill 'Bullet' Jones lived up to his nickname to head his, and Brighton's, second goal as Harry Bromage unavailingly could only get his fingertips to it. It was Bert Longstaff, once again, that created Brighton's third and best goal. The tiring Leeds defence failed to hold him from making another searching run down the flank and he sent over a teasing centre for Jimmy Smith to power in a great header for the killer third goal, in a 3-1 victory. Leeds finished well beaten by a much fitter, cleverer and more organized side.”  (The Brighton team was Bob Whiting; Fred Blackman, Joe Leeming; Billy Booth, Joe McGhie, J.H. Howarth; Bert Longstaff, Bill Jones, Jimmy Smith, G.C. Webb, Bill Hastings.)


Bert was now performing at what many believe to have been his best and in much the same way as his performances helped his former club to achieve their ‘treble’ the Albion’s similar success in the 1909-10 season was due in no small way to his influence when they carried off the Southern League title, the Southern Charity Cup and no less than the F.A. Charity Shield!

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The Albion poster issued to celebrate the 1909-10 successes showing the players, trophies and statistics. (author’s collection)

The Charity Shield in those days was competed for between the champions of the Football League and Southern League and the winners were nearly always from the former. Aston Villa were Brighton’s opponents that day and the match was played in front of 13,000 spectators at Chelsea’s ground at Stamford Bridge. Brighton started well and were the more impressive of the two teams until nearer the end of the first half when Villa started to take control and actually had the ball in the net but this was disallowed as the rules then prevented goals from being scored direct from corners. In the second half Villa continued to press but Brighton easily contained the pressure and only two long distance shots were made at their goal. On 72 minutes Bert Longstaff crossed the ball which Villa failed to clear. Bill Hastings took possession of it and passed to Charlie Webb who “dribbled round two defenders before hitting a rising shot into the net.”  In winning this match Brighton effectively became the footballing champions of England.


What kind of home attendances did Brighton have in those days? Ordinary league matches may well have has lower attendances but we know the gates of some of the more important games. In 1905/6 there were 15,000 for the cup match against Sheffield United; 11,000 saw Bert Longstaff score the final goal in the 3-1 defeat of Swindon in the 1909/10 season to win the Southern League title and similar gates were experienced in the matches against Northampton in 1911 and Everton in season 1912/13.


The First World War bought an interruption to Bert’s and most other footballer’s careers but he went back with the Albion again when the war ended and the football leagues recommenced their competitions. Despite his age (34 in 1919) he continued in the first team and in the season 1920/21 he played for them in the newly formed Division Three South of the Football League that included such clubs as West Ham, Portsmouth, Southampton and Crystal Palace but this was to be his last season as a professional.


During his time with Brighton Bert earned himself two benefit matches, the first in 1913 when the opponents were Portsmouth and with a crowd attendance of 2,000 earned him £135-3s-0d, equivalent to about £11,000 in today’s money. Unusually, his second benefit in 1923 was after he had left the club in a match against Merthyr Town (then a Division Three South club like Brighton) when the gate was 5,000 – this however was a joint benefit with another player so that the shared amount would have been a little over what he had earned in 1913. Bert made 443 appearances for the Albion during which he scored 86 goals thereby becoming the only Brighton player to hold for a number of years both records for aggregate appearances and goals.


His younger brother Harvey also made his mark playing for Steyning, Shoreham and Worthing before following Bert to join Brighton. However, Harvey’s time there was brief making only 9 appearances but scoring 4 goals before being transferred to Southend in 1914.


In 1924 later Bert secured permission from the Football Association to revert to amateur status and rejoined Shoreham then in the Sussex County League for his remaining playing years and appeared for them in the 1925 Sussex Senior Cup Final aged 39.  He later moved to Freshfield Road, Brighton and lived there until his death at the good age of 84.


Roger Bateman
Shoreham
May 2010

Sources:-
‘Albion A – Z ; A Who’s Who of Brighton & Hove Albion F.C.’ by Tim Carder and Roger Harris. Published by Goldstone Books 1997
 ‘Albion – The First Hundred Years’ by Paul Camillin & Stewart Weir. Published by Pavilion Publishing (Brighton) Ltd 2001
 ‘Leeds United F.C. – A Complete History.’ (website)

Documentary Records.

Described as a 'Capital Messuage in 1738, the land within which the vaults are situated was owned by the Smith family and then, in 1782, passed to the Bridgers. However, the description of the property whilst mentioning 'two tenements, malthouse, garden, stables, coach house and coachyard (which included the land and buildings southwards from the Manor House down to - but not including — the old Custom House and west [behind] the latter.) does not mention a vault or cellar at all.

In his book 'The Story of Shoreham,' Henry Cheal states of the site  “....there is still existing a large tunnel-like vault built entirely of chalk blocks. It probably dates from the late seventeenth or early eighteenth century and was used for bonding purposes.” Michael Norman in his 'Walkabout Guide to Shoreham' offers that the old Custom House (from the appearance of a sketch of it in 1830) may possibly have been 16th century. This building then extended round a courtyard on three (south, west and north) sides but with an open side to the courtyard where Church Street is. Records indicate that much, if not all these buildings were used by the Customs for their Officers' accommodation and for storage. It is also believed that some of the buildings south of the Customs House were originally built for storing confiscated goods and it is almost certain that the vault to the north was also utilised for the same purpose. More recent maps of the existing house compared with 18th century maps show that the northern side stood exactly above where the vault is and today's main (western) external entrance would have opened into the inside of the building (if in fact there was access from inside then).

Vault,in Church Street,  Shoreham by
The 1782 and 1818 maps show the pre 1850's building (blue) alignment with what is now No.22 Church Street (red) across the road. The 1860 map shows that today's No.21 Church Street (green) is seen to be exactly in line with the north courtyard wall of the original building.

The earliest known written record of the vault as such is in 1831 when the Parish Poor Rates show them to be used by one I.H.Smith. By 1841 and 1851 if not before, the Shoreham property developer G.H.Hooper was the owner and West, Hall and Smith (probably wine and spirit merchants) rented the vaults for storing wine. Shortly after the Customs moved to their new premises in the High Street (also built by Hooper) he then demolished the old Custom House in Church Street and built in its stead the terraced houses we see today. It was at this time the vault became part of the new house above it and, as far as we know, ceased to be used for commercially as there is no further mention of it.

Physical Survey


At ground level, evidence of the vault can still be seen from two stones in the front garden of No.21 which cover a brick lined vertical, rectangular shaft down which coal was once dropped into the front part of the vault for storage until required for use in the 1850’s house above - there is no evidence of other use to indicate physical access at this point.

 At the rear of the house well into the back garden there is an external doorway to the main entrance to the vault and, bearing in mind the depth of the existing house from back to front and more, the vault's entire length can already be gauged as considerable!

Vault,in Church Street,  Shoreham by

Left: Looking up the steps to the western, back garden entrance.

Right: Looking down the second flight of steps from the half landing.

The steps down head eastwards back towards the house and are wide and roomy — unlike other vault and cellar steps elsewhere in the town and indicative of intended access for large and bulky items. There is plenty of headroom and no crouching is necessary as the steps progress down halfway to a half landing before turning left at right angles the remainder of the way. The bricks making up the steps and the wall on the northern side of the steps look to be fairly recent and may be the result of strengthening and renovation during the last century. The wall on the southern side however is flint and mortar and continues down to the vault floor — could this be the last vestiges of the original pre- 1850's building? Upon reaching the bottom landing immediately on the right is a large brick edged, arched doorway that was originally 6 feet wide but now slightly narrowed by a strengthening wall and probably would once have sported an impressive stout oak door or doors with massive iron bolts and locks to secure the contents from unwanted attention — as a commercial wine storage and perhaps also during use by the Customs.

Vault,in Church Street,  Shoreham by
Top — Looking back to the western doorway
Below — The low walls showing the arched brickwork

One step down from the archway the floor level is 11 to 12 feet beneath the ground and the large dimensions of the vault can now be appreciated. At sixteen and a half feet wide the floor's width almost matches the 17 feet width of the house above. This floor (now a cement covering) is bounded on each side by low flint and brick walls that continue up with chalk blocks in an impressive vault-curve, the highest point of which are 8 feet above the floor. Sadly, two sets of double screen brick walls built across the width of the vault during WWII and intended to provide extra strength for use as an air raid shelter (but nevertheless part of it's history) now prevent an unimpeded view down its entire 54 foot length — a sight that must once have been very impressive..

The remaining low walls all along the sides of the vault appear to have something of a pattern in their construction in that every 4 or 5 feet or so there is a brick arch that may have been strengthening or perhaps even have been above storage recesses in the wall. Due to their age, wear and over covering of their edges by enthusiastic mortaring it is difficult to be precise about the dimensions of the bricks used. However, these seem to range from 8.5 to 9 inches long, 3.5 to 4 inches wide and 2.25 to 2.50 inches deep — allowing for regional variations this places the age of the bricks as 18th century and probably nearer the mid 1700's. Nevertheless, this is the age of the bricks only, not necessarily the main chalk block construction and may only indicate a reconstruction stage in the building's history.

 The chalk blocks themselves are something else altogether and, as an age old construction method going back centuries it is virtually timeless. The vaulted chalk roof in St.Mary’s church is one example which may indicate that the Church Street vault could possibly be older 18th century. Chalk is readily available locally, is soft and easy to carve and shape but equally it is not suitable for outside use where it would soon be eroded by the weather. Apart from one or two blocks that have been part 'powdered' by chemical reaction, most appear to have become quite hard during their time as part of the vault which again may point to antiquity. None are precise in dimension but most are around 14 inches long by 6-7 inches deep, some are smaller and others are up to 22 inches long. From those specially shaped returned blocks for the old entrance it appears they were a more consistent 6 -7 inches wide.

Vault,in Church Street,  Shoreham by

One of the WWII Air Raid Shelter screen walls showing the arched access doorways on the right


A little over fourteen feet into the vault is the first WWII wall screen which, due to the lack of weathering of inside conditions, looks almost new. These are not particularly important but warrant some mention. All of these extend from wall to wall and up to the ceiling. These each consist of a set of two walls with a narrow 57-inch passage between each. The first of these of walls has a man sized curved topped doorway on the south side and a low, square access gap on the north side, the latter presumably for passing through small pieces of equipment. On entering the south doorway the first passage turns left to reach the north wall with the access gap on the left and another man size doorway on the right into the second vault area. After that area the process is then repeated with the second set of wall screens with the door on the southern side, northwards through the passage to the last access gap on the left and doorway on the right into the final part of the vault on the right.

Vault,in Church Street,  Shoreham by
Left: The old recessed doorway in the south wall.
Right: The inscribed chalk block

Returning to the second vault area the wall and roof pattern is repeated apart from an unusual recess in the roof against the southern wall. The chalk roof arch of this recess provides an almost church-like alcove to create a taller vertical wall measuring 7.5feet high at the apex and six feet wide as compared with the remaining lower 3 foot (approx.) wall that runs along the length of both sides of the vault. There is no matching cut-out on the opposite wall, nor elsewhere in the vault and it seems unlikely that such a relatively small area (compared with the total size of the vault) would be especially cut out, for example, to be able to store a tall object up hard against the wall. As we have seen, todays' external (western) entrance would have been inside the older pre 1850s building and upon inspection the recess is not a cut-out as such but architecturally sculpted with specially shaped chalk blocks that faithfully follow the curve of the roof and the returns to the wall where a door may once have been. At first sight the wall here is filled with random chalk blocks, bricks, flints but mostly mortar and in appearance seems almost as old as the remaining original walls themselves. However, the blocking up of the old entrance even as recently as 150 years ago when the houses now on the site were first built, would still have involved the builders using any old unwanted and original material lying about inside and outside of the building. Everything points to an original entrance that exited out southwards, probably up steps to the courtyard area and at the very least provides an architectural feature that so far as is known cannot be seen anywhere else in town.

Vault,in Church Street,  Shoreham by
 The eastern end wall showing the vertical coal shaft

Just a few feet east of the old doorway is an inscription in one of the chalk blocks on the same south all/ceiling:-                'T H  1776.' If genuine, this ties in nicely with the 18th century brickwork and although the initials do not coincide with any of the recorded owners that we know of they could possibly be indicate the name of Thomas Hanington as the Hanington and Roberts families jointly owned and developed a number of properties in the town at this time. If it relates to the chalk work then was it the date of the construction of the vault or repair work?

 The final area brings us to the front/eastern end of the building where the vertical shaft to the surface is set into the wall. As previously mentioned the current owners confirm that this was once used to drop the house heating coal down for storage. Three feet inwards (west) of this shaft and the end wall there is another, much smaller rectangular shaft 6 x 4 inches in the centre of the roof to ground level above – perhaps to provide a source of air when the doors were closed and the shaft at the eastern end did not exist.

Vault,in Church Street,  Shoreham by

How old was the Vault?

The physical and documentary clues are not straightforward. If the building above the vault was as old as 16th century then it seems unlikely that anyone would have gone to the trouble of excavating the vault from the side of and under an existing building — the expense would have been considerable and there would have been a distinct danger of weakening and collapsing the building above during excavations. Assuming the vault was built first and the building above was 16/17th century then it follows the former must date from the same time if not before.

The inscription ‘TH 1776’ on one of the chalk bricks is intriguing and if it does record the year when the vault was dug out then the building above the cellar is more likely to have been built after 1776 unless it was inscribed when the cellar was renovated. Perhaps the southern (Customs House) part of the overall building was 16th century and the northern part above the vault more recent.

At the beginning of these notes we saw that Shoreham’s foremost historian Henry Cheal reckoned the vault was probably late seventeenth or early eighteenth century. He describes it as being ‘tunnel-like’ built of chalk blocks so must have seen the place for himself and having a known passion for accuracy and detail the 1776 inscription would have been too obvious for him to miss. However, until such time as expert opinion can be obtained this is probably about as close as we can get.

Roger Bateman
Shoreham 
November 2002

Thursday, 18 March 2010 11:48

Farmers, Millers and Bakers

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- from sowing the seed and harvesting then milling the flour to baking the bread, one Shoreham family provided the full service.

Henry Adams was born on the 22nd October 1798 at Barcombe, Sussex and came from a long line of farming folk in and around mid Sussex. He married Phoebe Avery from another ancient mid Sussex family, ten years his junior and born in Plumpton. Henry was a master miller and baker and owned a fine farmhouse in Plumpton Lane. He married Phoebe at Plumpton on 21st April 1829 and their first child, also Henry, was born there on 9th March 1830. 

Henry’s subsequent offspring are all shown to have been born in New Shoreham which indicates that the family were first there in 1833 when the second child was born. The family lived at 46 High Street (of course, not numbered then) which he rented from Messrs Bradleys, next door to Miles Adams, his brother, who owned and occupied number 44 – Miles married Mary Egden and first appears at the latter address in 1831. 

By 1841 business was booming and Henry had taken on 16 year old Henry Diplock as an apprentice and 15 year old Fanny Parsons as a servant. Furthermore, he had also taken under his wing Egden Adams 12 now an orphan after both his parents (Miles and Mary) had died. Another orphan and presumably Egden’s brother, Thomas Adams was with Thomas Carver, a miller and his family in Buckingham Street.

Adams Family Shop, High Street, Shoreham by Sea

Detail from the High Street snow storm photo of 1881 showing the set-back buildings (no’s 48 to 52) that Henry started off with. By 1911 he owned all of numbers 46 to 52 but had let no.46 to his son-in-law Frederick Wood.

It may sound uneconomical to imagine that corn was transported from Henry’s Plumpton farm bearing in mind the distance involved but using his own produce and possibly his own carts meant that he only had to bear the production costs. The journey may have been slow and ponderous but the 12 miles or so from Plumpton was nothing compared to the distances that dry cereals were even then transported all over the world. By 1841 Henry had purchased the mill in Mill Lane from H.C.Bridger and it was here he ground his grain for flour - he also built a large granary in John Street which still stands but even then still needed to rent the Marlipins to store his corn as well. 

By 1851 the family were still at the same address and Henry’s two eldest sons and nephew are now working for him and the household, already large, has increased to twelve:-
Henry Adams               52 Miller & Baker employing three hands b.Barcombe
Phoebe Adams             43 wife b. Barcombe
Henry Adams               21 son, baker b.Barcombe
Amos Adams               18 son, baker b.New Shoreham
William Percy Adams  17 son b.New Shoreham (a mistake by the census taker perhaps and should be William Avery)
Phoebe Ann Adams     16 dr. b.New Shoreham
John Adams                 14 son scholar b.New Shoreham
Mary Jane Adams        12 dr. scholar b.New Shoreham
Gabriel Adams             10 son scholar b.New Shoreham
Elizabeth Charity Adams 7 dr.scholar b.New Shoreham 
Egden Adams               21 nephew, baker b.New Shoreham
Mary Ann Grooms       17 house servant b.Steyning  

Henry senior died at 8.15 am on the 16th February 1854 and Phoebe at 9.50 am on the 9th July 1858 so did not reach great ages being 55 and 50 respectively. Eldest son Henry junior, still single, inherited the business and kept the bakery going employing his brothers Amos and Gabriel with his sister Mary as housekeeper. Thirteen year old Ellen Clark was their domestic.

The bakery business continued to thrive and having been enriched by the majority of his father’s estate Henry moved  to Victoria Road , invested in the shipping business becoming a ship owner and purchased the neighbouring houses and shops from 46 High Street up to and including no.52 on the corner with John Street. In 1880 at the age of 50, Henry married 24 year old Ada Gates from Brighton and in doing so not only gained a young wife but also married into what one of the largest ship owning families in the area.
By coincidence their housekeeper was Mary Winton, sister of William Winton who was to become the celebrated organiser of Shoreham’s regattas and carnivals.

Henry had already become known to and involved with the Gates family through his ship owning ventures and we know of two vessels that he owned. The first was the ‘Agricola’ a 600 ton ship built by Messrs. Balley for Henry Adams & Co and christened at the launching ceremony by Miss E. Adams ‘the sister of one of the owners.’ This was Henry’s sister Elizabeth Charity Adams. These details have been gleaned from ‘The Ships & Mariners of Shoreham’ as has the following concerning the other record of Henry’s ships which is repeated here verbatim:-

“A fatal collision occurred off Shields on Wednesday 5th April 1865. About midnight the ‘Hedley Vicars,’ brig of Shoreham laden with coals homeward bound, was proceeding down the Tyne in tow of the steam tug ‘J.P.Almond’ when about a mile ahead a steamer was seen approaching from the sea. The helms of the tug and the ‘Hedley Vicars’ were ported and the steamer hailed to alter her course. Although every effort to avoid a collision was made by the ‘Hedley Vicars’ the screw of the steamer which proved to be the ‘Berwick’ and which was under full steam, struck her with a tremendous blow on the port bow cutting the vessel down to the waters edge. The damage was so extensive that the brig immediately began to sink and a few minutes after the collision went down. The crew, with the exception of a lad who was in the cabin, escaped. The latter, a youth of about nineteen belonging to London, went down into the forecastle to get a drink just before the collision and it is probable that when the screw struck the brig he was killed; the crew called to him to come up but no answer was returned. The remainder of the crew landed at Shields and on the application of the master of the ‘Hedley Vicars’ the Tyne Commissioners’ diver went down and recovered about £8 and a quantity of clothing. The diver reported that the decks were breaking up and the port bow nearly out but he could discover nothing of the youth that was missing. At the time of the disaster the captain’s dog was in the jolly boat on the deck and when the ship sank the boat floated away with the dog in it. The animal was rescued by his master and the boat secured and taken ashore.

Messrs English, Adams & Horrocks were the owners of the ‘Hedley Vicars’ and Messrs Henry & Amos Adams of Shoreham claimed on the owners of the ‘Berwick’ for the loss of the ship. The case was heard in the Admiralty Court on Friday 28th July 1865 and after consultation with the Trinity Masters the court decided that the steamer was to blame and pronounced for the damage.”

Henry was now in partnership with the big business names of the town;- The Englishes ran the rope and sail making business in West Street and William Horrocks was another ship owner who lived at the house now numbered 28 Church Street. Amos was of course Henry’s brother.

 In 1891 the family were still in Victoria Road and Henry appears as a full of vitality 61 year old father of children Henry John 9, Charles 8, William 4, Ada 2, and Ernest 7months. Two more children, Reginald and Frederick followed before they all moved in 1900 to a new house next to their mill in Mill Lane. One of a pair of semi-detached houses, Mill House was especially commisioned to be built for him and the original coloured architect’s drawings still exist in Adur Council’s Planning Department along with a plan of the houses and the windmill next door. Henry eventually died on 14th October 1916 at the good age of 86 and is buried in the New Shoreham Municipal Cemetery. His wife Ada also enjoyed a long life and died at the age 87 at Mill House in 1944.

Adams Family Mill House, High Street, Shoreham by Sea
Top Left: Detail from the 1907 Shoreham sports day which Henry and his family probably watched. Mill House can just be seen to the right of the mill.
Right: Mill House today.
Below Left: The recently uncovered house name.

 Back to 1861- brother John is next door to 46 High Street with his wife Mary Ann as a Master Tailor employing two men and cousin Egden (the orphan) now married to Amelia is in 1, East Street, on the south-west corner with the High Street, as a Master Baker in his own right. They remained here until the 1880’s but never seemed to have any children.  Egden’s bakery, next to the Ferry Arms pub, had two fronts, one for the door on the High Street and the other in East Street. It was later absorbed into the pub itself and the old shop front removed during the 20th century sometime after 1921.

Adams Family East Street Shop, Shoreham by Sea

 

 

Egden Adams’ bakery in East Street was the shop on the left. It has since been absorbed into the Ferry Arms which at the time of this photo was on the right hand side of the building.

 

 

 

 

 

The remaining brother William set himself up as a builder and on the 26th January 1857 married Elizabeth Patching at Preston Manor church near Brighton. Returning to Shoreham William and his wife set up home at first in the High Street, probably 46 with other of Williams brothers and sisters, where their first child Laura Elizabeth was born on the 19th November 1857. Perhaps due to some overcrowding at no.46 Henry may have arranged for William and his family to move on to John Street where they are recorded in 1861 having increased their number by one more child:-

William Adams 25 Builder b.Shoreham
Elizabeth 24 wife, milliner b.Henfield
Laura 3 dr. scholar b.Shoreham
Kathleen 1 dr. b.Shoreham
Catherine Leech 13 domestic b.Brighton
Philip Rose 23 mariner b.Brightlingsea, Essex (presumably a lodger)
Eliza Rose 24 wife b.Steyning

Their house, owned by Henry, adjoined the front of the large granary store previously mentioned which Henry had built and which still stands on the south side of the pathway that runs alongside the Baptist Chapel where the garages are now. 

The 1871 census shows Amos Adams is now living at 72 High Street with, and working for, his brother in law Frederick Wood and his wife Mary, Amos’ sister. Frederick, then a baker, later turned his hand to run an apparently successful contractor and haulier’s  business and remained in that house until his death in 1929. Amos returned the compliment and himself married Wood’s sister and lived for a while with Frederick at his house in the High Street.

Adams Family, Mary Jane Wood, Shoreham by Sea
Left: Mary Jane Wood, nee Adams
Right: An advertisement for her husband Frederick Wood’s business that includes a photo of what is believed to be Frederick perched precariously on one of his wagons.

By now William Adams had managed to improve his circumstances and moved to a somewhat better residence at 8, Church Street:-
William Adams 34 House Carpenter b. New Shoreham
Elizabeth 32 wife b.Henfield
Kathleen 11 dr. scholar b. New Shoreham
Alfred 8 son b.New Shoreham
George 4 son b.Southwick


Sadly, William died some eight years later of ‘epilepsy coma’ at the young age of 44 at the Union Workhouse on the 27th April 1879. This does not necessarily mean that William had been there some time as an inmate as workhouses then were for most the only means of medical care. As an ongoing development of this service most workhouses throughout the country evolved into hospitals by the 1930’s. However, perhaps as a consequence by 1881 his wife Elizabeth moved with her offspring to the Lower Road (now Brighton Road) on the river front. This was a small collection of what appears to be poorer houses just round the corner from East Street where the garage now stands that have since been demolished for road widening.
.
Elizabeth Adams 43 widow, milliner b.Henfield
Kathleen Adams  21 dr. b.Shoreham
Alfred Adams 18 son, brewer’s cellarman b.Shoreham
George Adams 14 son, newspaper boy b.Fishersgate
John T. English 47 widower, lodger, gardener b.Shoreham

George had become a postman by 1891 but yearned for a better life and after marrying Ellen Rhoades from Buckingham Road is believed to have emigrated to New Zealand taking his wife and mother with him.

Adams Family, Laura Adams,Shoreham by Sea
Laura Adams as a young woman circa 1880

William’s daughter Laura first worked as a general servant for the Hedgthorne family at 27, Church Street. The poor girl was only thirteen and although that was not so unusual for the time it emphasises an entirely different way of life then when children had to grow up early. James Hedgthorne was an oyster merchant from Brightlingsea. Laura continued her domestic work during her teenage years and as she grew up would have realised that marriage was the only hope of escape from a life of drudgery in servitude. Her hopes for a better life looked brighter when she met and married William Finch who later became head attendant for the somewhat tactlessly titled ‘Metropolitan District Asylum for Imbeciles’ at Caterham in Surrey. One of their subsequent offspring was later to return to the area setting up a successful laundry business at nearby Portslade in the 1920’s.

Roger Bateman
Shoreham
March 2004


Wednesday, 17 March 2010 15:40

The Blockade Coastguard House at Shoreham

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During the 18th and 19th centuries one of the Customs & Excise’s main south coast administrative offices was located at Shoreham in Church Street up to 1830 then in the High Street building that later became the Town Hall before it moved to Southwick. In addition the town once had its own Coast Guard Station.

The Coastguard Service evolved from the old Blockade (or “Preventative”) Service, the latter of which was created in 1817 following the country’s huge loss of revenue due to what was then considered by some to be a lack of success by the Customs and Revenue Services in coping with the smuggling problem. It is perhaps unfair to lay the blame for this entirely upon them as, amongst other things, we know that manpower was short compared with the smuggling gangs they came up against; pay was poor and even the ships they used were invariably slower and less well armed than the smugglers’ own vessels. Run along Naval lines the new service provided employment for the considerable number of service men that were otherwise no longer required following the end of the Napoleonic Wars.

Buildings such as the Napoleonic Martello Towers along our southern coasts, barracks and forts were utilised. These were known as Coast Blockade Stations or “Watch” houses and many existing houses were also converted for this purpose or were newly built. However, none of the houses were fortified as such being intended only as lookout posts (or “watch” houses) and for housing the officer’s and rating’s own families – something of a first in providing facilities for employees! During the period of the Blockade (1817 – 1831) the areas were reorganised from time to time and some watch houses abandoned in favour of better sites.

 The Victoria History of the County of Sussex (vol.VI. part 1, 1980) states that a coastguard station was built at South Lancing c.1820, and perhaps this was the station known by the Blockade Service as ‘West Shoreham’ (Copperas Gap as far east as Portslade was known as East Shoreham station) but, confusingly, Shoreham Beach was generally regarded then as belonging to Lancing. Another was recorded at Shoreham Beach on the 1851 census returns and another was built at Kingston (where a pilot’s watch house existed) “to replace the one at Shoreham Beach in 1900.”(1)

Two surveys of Shoreham Harbour dated 1829 and 1844 (Mss.20,107 and 20,109) both show a “Preventative Service Watch House” at the same location as shown on the 1860 Ordnance Survey map, although the one at Copperas Gap is depicted further west, at Fishersgate, in 1844. C & J Greenwood’s 1 inch to 1 mile survey published in 1825 however shows two “watch houses” (not “Block” houses – the Navy never referred to them as such) on the shingle spit west of the harbour outlet, the most westerly one roughly where the 1860 one is shown, although it is difficult to be absolutely certain on such a small scale map.(2) All the foregoing is prior to 1857 and cannot be confused with the Shoreham Fort as this is sited at the harbour mouth and upon which work did not begin until that year and finished in June.(3)

 There is little doubt therefore that if not the earliest original site, the Watch House or Coastguard Station as it later became is clearly shown on the 1860 map at a point at the sea end of where Ferry Road now is, on it’s south-western corner and where it almost certainly stood from at least 1829 in one form or another and possibly earlier.

Blockhouse Map 1860, Shoreham by Sea
The 1860 map showing the Coastguard Station’s position in relation to the town (copyright West Sussex Records Office)

 The plan of the 1860’s building gives us an idea of its’ shape, a long ‘L’ with numerous smaller extensions (sheds or water closets for the families?) protruding from it at regular intervals and around its grounds other outbuildings and a flagstaff. If the station was moved to Southwick in 1900 it is probable that the building was demolished during the development of ‘Bungalow Town’ on the Beach during the first half of the 20th century.

As regards the individual Shoreham blockade men and coastguards we do have records of some of them. The New Shoreham Parish Records provide the following names entered by a diligent parish clerk who also included their occupations:-

George Shirley, Preventative Service 1823
William Hyatt of Lancing Blockade Service 1828
Charles Entisell, Blockade Service 1829
Thomas Dipper, Blockade man 1830
Matthew Hodge, Blockade Service of Shoreham Watch House 1831
Richard Rowland Turner, Coastguard of Shoreham Watch House 1831 & 1833
William Barrett, Coastguard of Coastguard Station House 1834 &1836
James Clark, Coastguard of the Stationhouse on the beach 1836
George Canning of the Station House 1837

The censuses also provide us with:-
Thomas White born at Cowes on the Isle of Wight living in Ship Street, 45years old, Superannuated Coast Guard 1841 and again in 1851
William Newell born at Selsey living in St.John Street, 67 years old, Superannuated Coastguard 1851
Richard Gill born at Mevagissy, Cornwall living in East Street, 61 years old, Superannuated Coastguard 1851
Thomas Butler, a Shoreham man by birth living in the High Street, 53 years old, Superannuated Coastguard Boatman 1851

Whilst the Coastguards named in1841 and 1851 are mostly past active service age they nevertheless indicate a likelihood that they were once serving in Shoreham and perhaps even as Blockade men before they were transferred to the Coastguard Service.

(Official references to the Blockade Service ceased in favour of the Coastguard during 1831 and the Watch House became the Station House.)

Some later coastguard personnel are also recorded in the parish records:-
Jonathan Dale, Coastguard 1857
Thomas Billett, Coastguard 1862
William Rocketts, Coastguard 1863
Edward Cord, Coastguard 1866
William Slaven, Coastguard 1869 (lived at Lancing and perhaps stationed there)
James Brunnen, Coastguard 1870
Henry Popham, Coastguard 1871
William Hines, Coastguard 1871, Rodney P.Jones, Coastguard 1871, Joseph Henry Hicks, Coastguard 1873 are all recorded as living in Lancing and again could have been stationed there.
R.P.Jones, Coastguard 1873
Thomas Fuller, Coastguard 1873
John Stephens, Coastguard 1880 (another Lancing resident)

 We know what Blockade Able Seamen (probably including the likes of some of those named above) would have dressed like as an1825 muster shows us that the uniforms provided to them included:- three blue jackets and trousers, 6 shirts, 2 pairs of shoes, 1 duck frock, 3 pairs of stockings, 3 flannel waistcoats, 2 black hats (these were round with a flat top and brim made of leather or japanned canvas) and around their necks they wore a black kerchief.

What of the individuals themselves and how were they received in the town? Run along Naval lines the discipline of its’ own men was tough enough (flogging was still a common feature of punishment) and these were, in any case, men already hardened by life at sea during the Napoleonic Wars. As a result the Service was a hard and at times ruthless force, purposely intended as such to provide a more effective method of countering the smuggling problem.

On the other hand, many townsfolk were themselves involved in the smuggling trade, if not directly then certainly by way of passive or implied support as there were few Shoreham inhabitants that did not benefit through the cheap purchase of silks, liquor, tea tobacco, etc.,.  Hitherto, although the Customs and Revenue men had some limited success and were generally to be avoided, enough goods nevertheless got through to satisfy most people’s needs but the new Service seemed to provide a far greater threat!

Blockhouse, Shoreham by Sea
For some time it was thought that these two tantalising circa 1910 glimpses in the distance of the old blockhouse were the only images of it. (Detail from Sussex Archaeological Society postcards in the Marlipins Museum Collection).


Consequentially, relationships generally with local Customs men had not been altogether healthy then became far worse with the arrival of the Blockade men particularly in the earlier years of the Service - a situation that was to cause as many problems for the Service as it was for the smugglers themselves. There are many instances throughout the country then where smugglers that had actually been caught red handed with contraband goods or captured having maimed and wounded blockade men were nevertheless set free by a completely unsympathetic legal system!

Shoreham was no exception. On the 7th December 1825 Lieutenant Henry Leworthy of the West Worthing Blockade Station had seen a cutter with a boat in tow hovering off the beach. As soon as it became dark he launched his galley and quietly laid alongside the cutter unseen by the crew until the last moment and six men and 92 tubs of spirits were taken as well as the cutter – the Mayflower of Brighton. The men were subsequently prosecuted in the Shoreham Court before magistrate John Wakefield. Five of the six were convicted and given light fines but John Wilkinson, who admitted to owning the illicit cargo and being on board the Mayflower at the time was freed because he claimed to suffer from fits!

Wilkinson, a Shoreham man well known to everyone as smuggler, was examined physically prior to the court hearing by Mr.Peins, Blockade Surgeon, and pronounced fit for naval service. In his defence Wilkinson produced nothing by way of medical evidence to show he was epileptic but did have letters from nine citizens of Shoreham. Eight of these were dismissed by the Blockade report as being “… all brothers in the trade.”- the one exception being Mrs. Anro landlady of the Royal George but, according to the report, that hostelry was “nothing more than a pot house in a nest of smugglers.” Word of Wilkinson’s release soon spread around the town and magistrate John Wakefield was cheered round the streets.

Blockhouse, Shoreham by Sea
It was not until the Winton Collection of photos and postcards were being catalogued for the shorehambysea.com web site that an image of the old blockhouse was at last discovered. Perhaps disappointingly unimpressive to those expecting a sturdy building with strong defences these were never intended to be anything more than accommodation for blockade men and their families.


Despite these demoralising setbacks the success of the Coast Blockade by 1830, whilst limited, did have some effect on smuggling added to which local magistrates had by now adopted a more sympathetic response resulting in far more successful convictions of captured smugglers. In the same year the number of land stations in the Sussex Blockade Service were West Division 15, Centre 21 and East 31. Shoreham West’s complement was 2 officers, 3 petty officers and 20 men so that even though not all of them may have had wives and families the Watch House must have been quite crowded. Shoreham West was the first station in the Western Division that stretched to Chichester – the so called Shoreham East at Copperas Gap was in the Centre Division. Neither Shoreham stations appear to have had semaphore signal capabilities although Hurd’s 1812 Admiralty Chart shows that there was one up on Slonk Hill behind the town (see 6b in Historic Maps of Shoreham on shoregambysea.com web site).

The Blockade’s days were numbered however as it had been an expensive campaign and was now under scrutiny following the Duke of Wellington’s replacement as Prime Minister by Lord Grey and a new First Lord in the Admiralty – by 1831 it was disbanded. As a campaign, like the Customs before it, the Blockade only achieved a limited measure of success although no armed force in the country at that time could have actually stopped huge flow of illicit contraband. Essentially, it was a war of attrition where armed service discipline and determination gradually turned the pattern of smuggling away from armed gangs fighting on the shores to concealment on vessels.

 Many of the watch houses had long been provisioned with mortars for firing lines on to ships in distress as well as other life saving equipment and had been responsible for saving lives themselves as well as promptly reporting floundering vessels in order to muster aid promptly.

The Coastguard Service that had already been in existence for a few years by then was also involved in anti smuggling duties but besides continuing this after 1831 (under the control of the Board of Customs) also started to take on more of a life saving role. Men from the disbanded Blockade Service were either stood down (with pensions if they were lucky) or transferred to the Coastguards and many of the watch houses such as Shoreham were taken over.

Concealed smuggling continued in a big way for a few years but a most effective deterrent virtually eradicated large scale smuggling in 1841 when Prime Minister Robert Peel amended the country’s duty tariffs. Many duties of customs and excise were reduced and compensated by the reintroduction of income tax so that for the smuggler there was no longer any profit or not sufficient to support a commercial venture.



Roger Bateman
Shoreham
April 2003
(revised March 2010)


Sources:- generally, from ‘The Coast Blockade 1817 - 1831’ by Roy Philp. Compton Press;(1) & (2)West Sussex Record Office; (3)John Goodwin’s “The Military Defence of West Sussex” (Middleton Press 1985) NB This has been written without any reference to the records at Kew which may provide further information.






Following the commencement of hostilities Lord Kitchener was appointed Secretary of War and it was he that laid the format for the organisation of four separate armies. Shoreham with a railhead, seaport and airport in a strategic position on the south coast became the location for forming the 24th Division, part of Kitcheners Third Army or K3 as it was known.

The sign of the 24th DivisionImage

    Almost before the ink was dry on the recruiting posters men started arriving by rail at Shoreham and local territorial soldiers began creating a tented camp on the Oxen Field to the north of Mill Lane. The close proximity of the railway station to the field meant that heavy equipment could more easily be hauled there. Initially, there were no instructors to train the new recruits nor uniforms or small arms. The flood of men was so great that the churches and townsfolk were needed to assist with providing temporary housing and food for them. As new recruits continued to arrive it was not long before Buckingham Park was also being used as a tented army camp with a field kitchen and latrines dug to provide a modicum of hygiene. The local Territorial soldiers were engaged to set up the spacing for tentage and supervise raw recruits by organising swimming parties on the Beach and holding basic roll calls to keep unsworn trainees busy.

 

Image
The early stages of the camp in 1914 with tents in Oxen Field (centre left) and Buckingham Park (right, in the distance) – Photo: Winton Collection
 
 
Image
A postcard sold at the camp showing neat rows of tents. Photo: Doris Steers Collection
 

The occupation of time to prevent the onset of boredom became a priority and a large parade ground with a hard surface was set up on land at Mill Hill.  The building of wooden offices to house the Headquarters Staff and Quartermasters stores were built adjacent to the square. As time progressed wooden buildings to house the Medical Officer and staff were erected and it wasn't long before recruits were being taught basic drill and how to march in line of route. The volume of mail at Shoreham post office increased so much that eventually an army post office was opened at the Mill Hill camp. A sanitation unit was provided but as this did not include a laundry the army posted a request in the local paper with a tariff of charges asking for laundering services which was responded to by many Shoreham housewives.

 

Image
The Parade Ground looking west to Mill Hill. 
Photo: Sussex Archaeological Society Collection PP_SHORM_89.688
 

Regular servicemen returning to ‘Blighty’ from India found themselves posted to Shoreham Mill Hill in order to pass on their military skills to the new recruits. Early rifle shooting training without bullets used indoor Hill-Siffken landscape targets which were used in areas where space was restricted and to save ammunition. The ground floor of Marlipins Museum was set up with these targets as were two large greenhouses at East Worthing near to what is now Onslow Court on the sea front.

 

Image
Hill-Siffken indoor targets such as this were used at Marlipins Museum
Photo copyright “Rifleman.org.uk”
 

It is understood that the inflow of new recruits was so rapid that by late 1914 Mill Hill camp was almost entirely tented but around 20,000 men were still in civilian clothing. Even the gate guards had no rifles and carried just a swagger stick each. Uniforms did not arrive until May the following year and the whole Division only had two rifles that had been borrowed from the Lancing College Officer Training Corps.
 
Following the winter of 1914/1915 which caused huge mud slides in the camp the tents were replaced by wooden billets that accommodated 20 men each and included a Corporal who was in charge of the hut. Drill purpose rifles were issued initially and replaced later by veteran Lee Metford long single action rifles which had been in use since the Boer War. Once basic drilling skills had been learned, uniforms were issued which came complete with a kitbag and large and side packs. Working parties were organised to assist with the construction of the billets which were built by local contractors and the Army Procurement Executive.

The basis of early training was to provide discipline, the ability to take orders, security of manpower, exercise and an ‘early to bed/early to rise’ routine. The civilian population living near to the camp soon became used to the army bugle calls of ‘reveille,’ ‘cookhouse’ and ‘lights out.’  A popular day for every soldier was pay day when all ranks paraded to salute and sign for their weekly pay. This was always given to soldiers in alphabetical order of their surnames so that those with names beginning with ‘W’ often had to stand patiently for an hour or more to receive their money.

 

Image
Top: The huts that eventually replaced tents
Below: An interior view
Photos: Sussex Archaeological Society Collection PP_SHORM_89.563 and 89.561
 

As winter turned to spring and the weather improved an outdoor rifle range was set up at distances of 25, 50, 100, 150, and 200 yards on the open downland above the camp. Army chaplains and Church Army bible readers were drafted into Shoreham to cater for the men’s spiritual needs.  Canteens were built but did not then involve the NAAFI (Navy, Army & Air Force Institute) which was not founded until 1919. Red Shield Clubs run by the Salvation Army provided tea, light snacks and board games with the Young Men’s Christian Association providing similar facilities. The army did supply a ‘wet’ canteen but soldiers on basic training were confined to the camp and the partaking of alcoholic drink was strictly forbidden. Horse-drawn transport for the regular instructors though was laid on for social trips into Brighton.

After seven weeks when the initial training had been completed further instruction in field craft, route marches, the use of machine guns and trench mortars took place. The area above Buckingham Park and Slonk Hill was transformed to create a realistic battleground where trenches were dug and barbed wire laid before them. The golf clubhouse on the Downs above Southlands Hospital was commandeered to become an officer’s mess. Shoreham had then two distinct camps, Mill Hill for recruits and Slonk Hill for learning advanced soldiering. Soldiers who had elected to serve in the Corps ie the Medical Corps, Pay Corps, Artillery and Signalling left Shoreham after basic training to go on to Aldershot and other regimental depots to complete their training.

The army of 1914 was fairly self supporting providing its own facilities such as barbers and boot repairers. The Veterinary Corps manpower included veterinary surgeons, blacksmiths and facilities for kennelling dogs with men trained in grooming and feeding horses. The 24th Infantry Division was formed out of men trained at Shoreham and possessed an ammunition train comprising some 500 horses used mainly to pull artillery field gun limbers. At places like the Shoreham camp local blacksmiths were also employed in order to cope with the huge number of horses used in training.

 

Image 
Top: An aerial view of the later camp showing huts around Buckingham Park. 
Photo: Winton Collection
Below: A 1940’s shot showing all that remained of the camp (top centre).
Photo: Sussex Air Photo Catalogue


In June 1915 rifles were eventually issued to all soldiers and the 24th Division by then comprising 35,000 men was posted to Aldershot during 19th to 23rd June where Earl Kitchener and King George subsequently inspected them. On 19th August orders were received to move to France and a few days later the Division went into action at Loos in Flanders where an appalling 4,178 casualties were incurred for little or no gain. During the period September 1915 to November 1918, the total number of casualties was put at 35,362, including those killed, missing and wounded.

Training continued at Shoreham where facilities gradually improved as the camp became a wooden town with a number of shops for the troops run by local traders such as William Winton’s stationery store and the Burfoot brothers who provided vegetable produce grown at their Middle Road nurseries. In all, five Divisions trained at the camp and left an indelible memory on the residents of the town. A memorial in the St Georges Chapel of St Mary's church is virtually all that remains of the once huge training base that existed in Shoreham.

 

Gerald White

June 2010     

Image

 

Reference Sources:-
‘The Long Trail’ internet website www.1914-1918.net
‘Peter Jackson Cigar Merchant’ by Gilbert Frankau – although a book of fiction much is based on fact concerning the Shoreham camp.
Family reminiscences – handed down from my Shoreham forebears who had first-hand knowledge of the events at the time.


Tuesday, 16 March 2010 15:37

Swiss Gardens - a short history

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SWISS GARDENS - A HOLIDAY RESORT:

It may even surprise many local inhabitants to learn that throughout the second half of the last century humble Shoreham-by-Sea in West Sussex was a veritable mecca for many thousands of people. They came from all age groups, from all walks of life, from near and from far; and all intent upon one thing - pleasure:

Daily, hundreds, even thousands of visitors would arrive by train and tram, by boat and bus, aboard coach or carriage, on bicycles and on foot. It has been said that on occasions as many as five thousand 'pleasure seekers' spent the day in Shoreham. This is all the more remarkable when records reveal that at the tine in question this figure was equivalent to twice the residential population of the town.

How was it that this modest harbour township was chosen as their destination by such a large number of those who embarked upon pilgrimages to the many shrines of pleasure situated along the south coast? Why did people from as far away as Portsmouth and London descend on Shoreham rather than say, Brighton or Worthing? What was the attraction that caused these Victorians to come in droves on their 'cheapday' excursions, their Sunday school treats, their family picnics, their firms' outings, or even their clandestine appointments?

It is, of course, true that Shoreham, in common with many other small towns, has had an interesting and on occasions even a glorious past. Without doubt, en the national scale, Shoreham's past status certainly would outshine that of its present. Any town, whatever its amenities, will naturally hold different attractions for different people and be capable of sustaining a steady throughput of casual visitors.  However, for over half a century the vast army of 'day trippers' which flocked to Shoreham, came eager to sample the delights of a single emporium renowned throughout the South of England for its entertainments - namely the 'Swiss Gardens'.

The Swiss Gardens were opened in 1838, the year of Queen Victoria's coronation, by a local shipbuilder and dignitary by the name of James Britton Balley (who, incidentally, is occasionally incorrectly referred to as 'J B Bailey' in some works of reference). The Gardens quickly became popular with local people who would frequently gather there for a dinner or luncheon to mark or celebrate some important event, such as the ceremonial launching, earlier in the day, of a new ship from one of the builders' yards - perhaps even from one of Balley's own. On such occasions it became usual to round off a day of festivities with a gala-ball in the magnificicant ballroom which the Gardens boasted. Henry Cheal, the revered Shoreham chronicler and historian, considered that the ballroom, which had a floor area of over eight thousand square feet, was probably the finest on the South Coast.

Some years before his death in 1863, J B Balley sold the Gardens to a Mr Edward Goodchild, for what at the time was reported to be 'a very large sum'. Under the new management of Mr Goodchild, aided by his wife, the Gardens went from strength to strength. The Goodchilds' greatly improved the facilities and ran the Gardens very successfully as a family concern for many years.

THE GARDENS:

The Swiss Gardens Lake (of which only a small section remains to give pleasure to the residential ducks and visiting Venture Scouts) boasted a little steam-boat called the 'Basilisk' of about half a horse-power which was capable of carrying up to ten 'Trippers' at a time.  In addition, at various times, there have been several other forms of floating craft, albeit mostly man-powered, such as punts, rowing boats and Indian canoes. Naturally a hire charge was usually made for some of these boating pleasures, but a Railway Poster dated 1856 clearly shows that patrons of the day could obtain really good value for their money at the Gardens. Similarly, an old photograph shows a plaque on the outside of the Swiss Garden advertising that:  "No charge is made for any of the amusements in the Gardens except a small one for: Billiards, Rifle Shooting and American Bowls,' and 'Admission One Shilling, Children under ten years 6d.'.

Included in the price of admission, in addition to the lovely ornamental lake and tastefully laid out and well kept gardens themselves, were the facilities for such diverse pastimes as fishing in the lake and dancing the gavotte to a Prussian Band. Around the ornamental trees and shrubs of the gardens freely strutted the equally ornamental peacocks. An aviary containing many exotic and colourful birds from all over the world was well placed among the flower beds and trees. There were many paths for both young and old to follow between the boughs and blooms, with delightful arbours and little summer-houses to offer rest to the eldery, privacy to the- young at heart, and playgrounds for the juvenile. There were well kept mazes to provide additional interest for al] age groups, together with the furniture and fittings without which any self-respecting recreation ground would be incomplete, namely:  swings, roundabouts, seesaws, slides and countless other sickness - and shriek-provoking apparatus. Not only were these provided in the 'Children's corner', but being the Victorian era, they were also available to the 'grown-ups';  separate Ladies' and Gentlemen's swings were available for those who desired them, naturally.

The catalogue of free amusements available in the Gardens at one time or another is almost unbelievable by the financially orientated standards of the British Amusement Park Industry of to-day. In his 'History of Brighton and Environs, 1871', Alderman Henry Martin said that:  ' ... the Swiss Gardens ... presented as great a variety of amusements as could be met with in any other place of its kind in England'.

A Grotto containing a Chalybeate Spring surrounded by fragrant roses and overflowing with sweet smelling Honeysuckle and other odouriferous plants and shrubs lay in a secluded part of the garden, the entrance to the grotto being guarded by large stone effigies of those legendary British giants, Gog and Magog;  cleverly apt perhaps, as these huge guardians of the overgrown entrance of this 'magic cave' were supposed to be the wicked draughters of the Emperor Diocletian, who were captured and kept hidden and chained by Brute. However, if the visitor baulked at the thought of entering the grotto it could at least be externally viewed to some extent from the safe distance of the picturesque 'Bridge of Steps' spanning the stream. Close by, those who wished could pass through a low door covered with more mystical characters, to consult with the discreet and esoteric 'Lady of the Temple of the Oracle' - but only between 11.00 a.m. and 1.00 p.m. and 2.00 p.m. and 6.00 p.m.:

A battery of six carronades, a kind of ship's cannon, would occasionally sound off to start an event on the sports field such as a balloon ascent, or the beginning of a firework display; or simply as an additional entertainment for the crowds.

The whole Gardens and surrounding area could be viewed from the top of an observatory which took the form of a high observation tower shaped rather like a lighthouse, and with just as many steps to climb to the top.

To cater for the sporting types there was a bowling green, an archery field and a cricket pitch, where, in addition to the playing of matches, the previously mentioned firework displays and balloon ascents took place.

Indoor  Entertainments:

We are told that even during the winter months the Gardens were well attended. At weekends, large numbers of both sexes would gather at the lakeside, in order to partake of the 'healthful and agreeable exercise' of skating on the frozen lakes. However, whatever the season, if the weather was unkind or the patrons were disposed to occupying their tine more sedately, the many indoor facilities provided may have been more to their taste.

Dotted around the grounds there were various small pavilions in which young and old could sit sheltered from the elements. Then there was the famous 'Main Pavilion1, in which a visitor might choose to 'take tea' or simply 'be seen' with his many like minded companions. This Pavilion is reported to have been able to seat a thousand people.

Two museums were advertised. One contained a gallery exhibiting photographs taken by Mr W Lane (who, it is believed, was also in business at 213 Western Road, Brighton, during this period).  Copies of the photographs on show were available for sale;  or should the customer prefer, Mr Lane or his assistant, would execute a postcard sized photographic portrait of the subject, at the modest price of one shilling.

In another pavilion Kr George Ruff, a local watercolour artist, showed 'Dioramas, Cosmoramas and Panoramas'. The Dioramas consisted of a series of spectacular paintings exhibited in a darkened room with light thrown onto the pictures in such a way as to produce an optical effect which gave appearance. of reality. The forerunner of the three-dimensional cinema perhaps? Without the necessity of wearing special eyeglasses! The effects could be varied so as to represent both day and night scenes. One popular exhibit by Mr Ruff was entitled:  'The Castle of Falkenstien. This was probably a series of scenes aimed at recreating those spine chilling sensations which the Victorian viewer may have experienced when reading of the more famous 'Frankenstien' of Mrs Shelley.

Also showing were Panoramas consisting of continuous scene pictures projected around the inner walls of a circular room, which were viewed from the centre by a promanading audience, (a for« of entertainment still able to draw the crowds a century or so later to the Lawns in nearby Hove).

The Cosmaramas or "Fairy Chromatropes' showing in yet another pavilion (not necessarily at the sametime), were a constantly varied presentation. They seem to have consisted basically of coloured slides projected onto a large screen, the most popular subjects being dissolving views of scenes of the 'Holy Land' and other well known 'wonders' of the world. Other cosmaramas frequently shown were slides of Houses and Gardens, such as: Chatsworth House, Derbyshire, and other Stately Homes, which are still much in demand by the holidaying public of the present, although nowadays they actually drive through the wrought iron gateways in person. Other highly revered places visited daily on screen by the humble populace included such splendors as the twelfth century Abbeys of Kirkstall in Yorkshire, and of Dryburgh, Scotland, thus adding an ecclesiastical flavour to the proceedings ensuring its respectability; especially for Sunday afternoon performances. At other times the cosmaramas mlight show the night skies, with the relative positions of the stars and planets - a sort of early Planetarium} Whatever was shown would be accompanied by an 'interesting and entertaining diologue' spoken by Mr Ruff. In addition to coloured slides, the chromatropes employed various and diverse paraphernalia to obtain special optical effects, including that of a fountain 'playing real water1.

A Library and Reading Room containing 'scrap books and albums' for the visitors perusal, was housed in yet another pavilion. Here there were also provided (all free of charge): "many seated tables' with chess sets draughtsmen and boards, for those who cared to use them, with an adjacent saloon containing facilities for bagatelle and Chinese billiards, and other "scientific games'.

The Theatre at the Swiss Gardens was said by a reporter to the Illustrated Times in September 1858, to be: 'Both neat and commodious'. It contained private boxes, a pit and a large gallery. Other than the boxes there were no reserved seats and 'first come first served' was the rule of the House.

The first performance daily on stage began at two o'clock in the afternoon. This usually took the form of a 'Vocal and Instrumental Concert', frequently including items known to be popular with the regular clientele such as: 'The Smirking Maid', featuring 'The Garden's very own, Mrs W Cooke!' At three o'clock, a "laughable farce” was presented. Between four and five in the afternoon coloured slides; (of the type previously mentioned! were invariably shown on a large screen, while musicians played in accompaniment.

The Ballroom, the immenseness of which has already been referred to, was probably (especially in the later years of the Gardens history) the roost famous of the pavilions.  It was about one hundred and fifty feet long and over fifty feet in breadth and was renowned for its tasteful appointments. There one could dance the night away to a "Quadrille Band' under the direction of the resident 'Master of Ceremonies, Mr E Marshall'.

Local organisations such as the Brighton Mechanics Institute, would organise a 'Fete and Days Outing' to the Swiss Gardens, followed by a •Grand Ball1 in the evening. George Moore's novel, 'Easter Waters', part of which is set in and around Shoreham, was first published in 1894, and in its early chapters the Swiss Gardens are referred to several times simply as:  ' ... the Gardens ...' or ' ... the Pleasure Ground ...'.  In the book, one character says:' ... Ah, she must have gone to the Gardens.  ... those Gardens, ... Dancing-Hail, theatre, sorcerers - every blessed thing. ... the jollifications culminated in a servants' ball ... a great number had come from West Brighton, and Lancing, and Worthing »• altogether between two and three hundred ... '. References of this kind tend to imply that the Gardens were solely the haunt of the 'lower orders'. Whilst that might have been increasingly so in the 1890's, when the Gardens were gaining a reputation of becoming the favourite gathering place of a somewhat rough element, it was definitely not the case forty or fifty years earlier when the Grounds were catering for thousands of visitors daily.

Sadly, in the early nineties, the Gardens quickly became considered a place at which it was not 'the thing to be seen. They survived a few years more, but the knell was tolled, and at length this popular entertainment centre was closed. From time to time the theatre was re—opened for concerts and entertainments by local amateur groups, but never again did it throng with the noisy joyful masses as it once had done.  Ultimately the entire Gardens were closed to the public, and for a time Mother Nature had her own way there. Some have said that at that time the Gardens were even more beautiful than when tended and manicured by a multitude of gardeners. Gradually though the brambles grew over the pavilions, windows were smashed, and roofs caved in. Thus, the spirit of the place seemed determined to survive for as long as possible, being even in its ruined state a paradise playground for the local urchins. Then came the Council School and the property developer ......

The Swiss Gardens Public House still stands at the original entrance to the Gardens and is at the time of writing (1982) having a 'face lift';  the pond has been dredged and restocked with fish and its surrounds landscaped. Although the Gardens can be but a shadow of their former self, it is pleasing to know that they continue to be a pleasure resort nearly one hundred and fifty years from their conception.

By Roy Sharp

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